Much like a fragrant Moroccan tagine, Marrakech is heady with contradictions. Sweet, sour and endlessly intriguing, the city delights and exhausts by turn.

The perfume of the spice souks, the stink of horse and donkey crap (mind your step!), the scent of orange blossom oil battling the fire from the street food stalls in the main square… In a word, I’d describe Marrakech as pungent. Pungent – and utterly magical.

My whistle-stop visit in September ’22 blows my preconceived notions apart. I’ve dreamed of visiting this exotic city since I was 12. But what I couldn’t have foreseen is the effect it will have on me.

Of course, given I’m travelling for Point Hacks, the journey is a revelation too. I fly oneworld Business Class all the way, on a ticket that retails for $4866 in cash. And naturally, I travel to Morocco entirely on points. 180,000 Qantas Points to be exact, plus approximately $909 in fees and taxes one-way – saving a staggering $3957 in the process. Read all about my luxurious journey in Qatar Qsuites and Royal Air Maroc Business Class here.

This colourful and chaotic metropolis is full of ‘ferocious harmonies’, as French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent so poetically put it. And it’s simply wonderful.

Here’s what I get up to while I’m there.

Also read: The Point Hacker’s pocket guide to Morocco

What to do in Marrakech

Founded in 1070, the beautiful Moroccan city of Marrakech is located in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, a short half-hour flight south of Casablanca. The city’s beating heart is the historic medina, which is surrounded by stunning fortified walls from the 12th century. Known locally as ‘the door to the Sahara’, Marrakech is encircled by – and built upon – arid desert, and the city experiences brilliant sunshine almost all year round.

Of course, Morocco is a Muslim country, and most Moroccans are deeply religious. In fact, Islam informs almost every aspect of everyday life.

It’s a pleasure to spend time here – and there’s much to explore. So let’s jump in.

Walk everywhere

Moroccans Walk absolutely everywhere. By and large, cars aren’t allowed inside the historic medina. So unless you’ve got a bicycle, motorbike or horse-drawn carriage, you’ll need to access it on foot.

In the narrow dust-filled alleyways, locals and visitors jostle for space with mule-drawn carts and the odd vintage scooter. So strap on a pair of sturdy walking shoes and get exploring.

Outside of the medina – where cars are permitted – walking’s still the preferred mode of transport for most Marrakeshi. In fact, it’s hard to convince a local that certain destinations outside of the medina might be better serviced by car.

The lovely manager of my riad accommodation, for instance, suggests I walk to dinner at the palatial Royal Mansour Hotel, waving away my question of how long it will take with a blithe, ‘oh, not more than 10-15 minutes.’ A quick Google search reveals it to be a brisk 35-minute walk away. And I’m wearing heels.

The compromise? I arrange for a taxi to meet me halfway, though I have to powerwalk 10 minutes through the medina to the nearest road to be picked up.

Those who aren’t able to walk distances – or who prefer the air-conditioned comfort of motorised transport – should consider staying outside of the walled city where cars are welcome. Though of course, it’s only by spending time in the medina itself that this magical city truly reveals herself.

Jemaa el-Fnaa Square

Founded in the 11th century, Marrakech’s famous main square is a chaotic melting pot of everything Marrakeshi. Lined with cafes and shops selling Moroccan wares, the vast square functions as an open-air marketplace and popular meeting point.

I’m fascinated to watch its evolution over the course of the day. In the morning Jemaa el-Fnaa is filled with pedestrians, orange juice stalls and a few haphazardly-driven taxis (there are no lanes or traffic lights). After 2 pm cars are banned, and the magicians, snake charmers and traditional dancers take up residence.

Speaking of cars (or lack thereof), I experience a bracing introduction to Marrakech when the taxi I’ve organised from the airport to my accommodation drops me at a busy intersection. The driver gestures for me to get out. With motorbikes whizzing by and no curb for reassurance, I step gingerly into the traffic.

The next thing I know a tall toothless man arrives with a wheelbarrow. He heaves my suitcases into it and takes off through the main square, carving a path skilfully through the crowd. Searing heat assaults my senses as I race to keep up. We arrive at my guesthouse 10 breathless minutes later.

But it’s just before sunset that the square really comes to life. Street food stalls appear, selling everything from fried fish to snail soup – all for a pittance. Locals and tourists flock here, though the manager of my riad warns me to stay away from the street food unless I fancy a bout of gastro (it’s fine for locals, he says, but tourists take a while to acclimatise).

On my first morning, I settle in on the ground-floor terrace of the historic Cafe de France for a piccolo latte. It’s a great spot to watch the passing craziness of the square unfold, though sit in the second row of seats to avoid getting haggled by passers-by.

For the best sunset views over the square, head to the upstairs terrace of the Grand Cafe Balcon. Purchase a water or juice (they won’t let you in without it), stake out a table on the railings and get snapping. The place is a complete tourist trap, but it’s hard to argue with those views.

Souks shopping nirvana

Marrakech has been described as one of the world’s great shopping cities. And after an exhilarating half day spent in the souks I can see why. I book a 3-hour tour with GetYourGuide for a measly $AUD29, and it’s some of the best money I’ve ever spent.

Exploring the rabbit-warren souks on a guided tour should guarantee you visit Morocco’s most authentic artisans’ workshops and stores with handmade goods, rather than those with bulk made-in-China knockoffs. It’s also an excellent way to ensure you don’t get lost.

As a chronic shopaholic, I deliberately fly to Marrakech with a half-full suitcase. But it isn’t empty for long. In the artisan shops I discover light-as-air goat skin bags, handmade slippers, colourful kilm rugs and handpainted ceramics. Not to mention a vast array of potions and spices, including the famously complex Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout.

But it’s El Jouli, a treasure trove of hand-poured brass goods decorated with etching and hammer-work, that really sets my heart alight. With lamps, bowls, serving dishes, wall sconces, champagne buckets and a million other gorgeous things on offer, I spend a small fortune.

Though if it weren’t for my guide, I would have spent a whole lot more. He shares an essential tip with me: when haggling in the souks, ‘first price’ is a thing. The owner of El Jouli writes the total cost of my four items on a notepad, offering it to me with a look of great seriousness. My jaw drops. But then my guide whispers in my ear, ‘that’s just his first price’. I walk away with my treasures for less than half the initial asking price and a spring in my step.

So my advice? Maintain your humour and keep on haggling! Moroccans are deeply hospitable and ultimately want to see you walk away happy – with your beautiful items in tow. It’s a good idea to have a currency conversion app ready on your phone, so you know exactly what you’re up against.