‘There’s no debating that Marrakech is a beautiful place, but life here is very different from what we’re accustomed to experiencing in major Western cities…’
This is both a major attraction and a set back, depending on your personality and travel experiences. There are a few things you should note before you head out to explore the Medina and surrounding neighbourhoods…
Money
Moroccan currency is closed, meaning that you cannot buy or sell it outside the country. The Money is Dirham (MAD) and there are roughly 10 to 1 British Pound. You are forbidden to carry more than 1000 into Morocco, and also cannot leave to travel home with more than that on your person.
There are ATM machines and Bureau de Change services all around, so changing money from your own currency (Sterling, Dollars, Euros, etc) involves a simple transaction – please beware that, when using UK pounds, only English notes are accepted. It’s not worth the hassle of trying to change Scottish or Irish notes here. Change only small amounts at once to ensure you don’t have much left as you will not be permitted to fly home with it in your possession. Many of the exchanges do so with commission attached, but just as many do not charge a fee.
Alcohol
As Westerners, we have the ability to purchase alcohol pretty freely, depending on which country we’re visiting but, although it’s not particularly difficult to buy in Marrakech, it’s not nearly as readily available as we’re used to.
‘Most Western style hotels will serve beer and wine at the bar, although this can be quite expensive…
If you, like us, avoid hotels and tend to stay in apartments, you can purchase alcohol in the local supermarket. The Medina does not have many, but there are a few major supermarkets in the Hivernage district, or you can find a large Carrefour or Label Vie around 30 minutes walk from the Medina. Morocco makes fantastic wines and you can pay anything from £3.50 to £18 for a bottle. Anything imported is more expensive but, when in Marrakech, why not sample the local stuff?
Noise
Marrakech is busy and extremely noisy. The Medina is a literal alley of tiny streets; some leading to other streets and some leading to big fat dead ends, so it can be difficult to escape the constant racket. Being a Muslim nation, call to prayer is a regular feature of daily life and it is wonderful sound. Horn beeping and the drones of moped engines and continual chatter; not so much. In the Medina, the noise is constant, although you do learn to block it out quite quickly. We sat on a rooftop terrace in our apartment in Rue de la Bahia, which is a good 10 minute walk from the main drag at Jemaa el Fna, and the hustle and bustle of the city conducting its business was never ending. If you’re looking for a peaceful break, this isn’t ideal as, even when indoors, the noise very rarely fades. If you live for action, this is definitely the city for you.
Street Vendors
I’m a quiet and pretty introverted person, so being constantly hassled to come into this restaurant or look at this handbag or fabric is not my idea of a good time. I like to be left well alone to browse and do my own thing. If you want as little hassle as possible, the main square will fill you with dread. However, the surrounding souks are much quieter and it’s possible to walk around at your own pace without much interference.
‘At the end of the day, these are business people making money to provide for their families and a simple ‘No, Merci’ should suffice when you’re approached…’
Sometimes, you’ll have to repeat it numerous times as you’re actually pursued down the street, but just be polite, keep moving and you’ll soon be clear. The only time I experienced rudeness after politely declining the offer to sit at a rooftop bar was in Jemaa el-Fna, where I was sworn at by the guy who didn’t take my refusal very well. Ignore anyone like this and simply move on.
Over-Charging
Marrakech isn’t particularly expensive, but do be mindful of what you’re being charged. On our first evening out in the Medina, we calculated our own bill (based on the menu prices) and found that the actual cheque was higher without good reason. The difference was around £4 and so we paid without argument, as it was still really cheap. On our way home, we stopped off to buy some water and were told a large bottle was 7 Dirhams (70p). After handing over 10, we were dismissed and had to enquiry about change. I have no issue with paying 10 MAD for water, but I do have issue with paying 7 and then being told to leave without receiving change. We asked what the problem was and were reluctantly provided with the rest of our money. This was an over charge of £4.30 in the space of 30 minutes between restaurant and store, so you can certainly see how this would quickly mount up over the course of several days. It’s not that it’s expensive, but it’s quite annoying knowing you’re being ripped off simply because you’re a tourist.
Dress Code
Morocco is a Muslim nation. I have no religious beliefs that require me to constantly have my arms, shoulders, head or face covered, regardless of how hot it is. However, I am mindful of cultures and would never be what I class as ‘uncovered’ in an Islamic country. For the most part, my legs were entirely covered and I wore long sleeves and loose clothing. On the single occasion I removed my wrap and had my arms in view, I felt very uncomfortable. If you look around you, all women are pretty much covered head to toe – including visitors. If you’re heading to Marrakech in the summer, I can’t imagine how hot and sticky this would be, but this is the expectation of women in the country and it’s best to adhere to local customs.
‘Take light clothing, but ensure you cover your arms and legs. There’s no need to cover your head or face unless, of course, you are Muslim, and then it’s very doubtful you’d be reading this…
Food
Whether you want to eat out, get supplies at a local supermarket, or enjoy some simple street food; Marrakech caters for everyone. Traditional foods, such as cous cous, kebabs, meat and veggie tagines, pastries and biscuits are commonplace, but there’s a great deal of panini, pizza and burgers, if you don’t wish to indulge in the local fare. Street vendors sell fresh corn in the cob, an assortment of traditional breads and baguettes, as well as crisps and snacks in local squares and souks. Supermarkets sell everything, and have the most fabulous assortments of spices, cheeses (Morocco was occupied by the French for a while…) meats and sauces. It’s impossibly to go hungry, regardless of your tastes and even vegans are widely catered for here.
Follow a few simple rules and enjoy your trip to Marrakech!
