Taiwan’s North Coast is a perennial favorite with Taipei urbanites seeking an escape from the daily grind. Easily accessed from the city, summer weekends see families flocking to the area’s sandy beaches. But when the mercury dips, a different kind of watery relaxation is called for – the warm embrace of a hot spring. The existence of hot-spring bathing on Taiwan’s north coast can be attributed to an earthquake. On November 23, 1867, a massive trembler shook the coastal settlements, triggering a tsunami and inundating the shorefront with 8m-high waves. All but a dozen or so of the 700 houses

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