The core of Lugang, located just off Taiwan’s central-west coast, is perhaps Taiwan’s best imperial-days living museum, a repository of heritage architecture even more concentrated than that found in the acclaimed core of Tainan City to the south, which was Taiwan’s Qing dynasty capital for over two centuries. If you have a passion for discoveries of historical sites, as I do, commit two days or more to the Lugang core. I’ve visited an uncountable number of times – for personal fun, on writing-research trips, and as part of regional religious pilgrimages undertaken annually by local citizens honoring Mazu, Goddess of

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