Tainan is a city with an essence that never seems to change, yet somehow gets better and better. Taiwan’s political and economic capital for more than 200 years, until 1885, it’s rightly regarded as a bastion of traditional culture. In its heart, the density of shrines and sites of historic importance is nothing short of astonishing. But there’s much more to Tainan than preservation of the past. In recent years a strong hipster aesthetic has taken root. Artists and entrepreneurs have repurposed all kinds of old buildings as galleries, homestays, and cafés. For those who like to wander side streets
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