Asked to name the most scenic road in all of Taiwan, most locals and long-term expats will say “the Suhua Highway.” Loved by tourists for its sheer beauty, and dreaded in almost equal measure for its unpredictable conditions (rockfalls) and – at times – annoying users (gravel-truck drivers, especially), the road is a must-do for any road-trip aficionado who is looking for the best routes on the island. Punctuating the route are a handful of characterful settlements (populated largely by members of Taiwan’s indigenous Atayal tribe), which lie in the alluvial plains created by stream and river water that has

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