Following the quite urban city of Christchurch, our next stop on our backpacking tour of New Zealand was the gorgeously quiet Lake Tekapo.
On arrival, we quickly noted that it was a bit chillier than we’d experienced before, and quite foggy. Interesting.
We then somehow (using my very tenuous internet connection) found our way from the bus stop, down the Lake side to out hostel. (Have I mentioned, along with every other visitor to NZ who has probably said it, their internet is CRAP!)
We stayed at the lovely Lakefront Lodge Backpackers, which as the name describes, was right on the waters edge. The place also doubled as a holiday Park, so had sort of camping and caravan feel. We ended up staying in an odd little sort of static caravan outside the main building, which was big enough for a double bed and not much else. I actually quite liked it, it was cute and cosy! (A bit of a squeeze for a 6’3” Ian though.) And the midnight run across the grass to get to the loo in the main building was a bit different.
Lake Tekapo Views
After dumping our stuff we headed out to explore, and were immediately struck. While we’d been faffing around with checking in the fog had lifted, sky had darkened and we were met by a gorgeous view like this right on our doorstep.
After playing around with a little body weight workout on the lake side (because backpackers need to keep fit!) we went for a stroll. And then, quite wonderfully, it started to snow. And Lake Tekapo became this absolutely spectacular colour. Shining a glorious blue – apparently it’s from the glacial flour in the water caused by glacial erosion.
How gorgeous is that!
Church of the Good Shepherd
After a wander around we thought we’d aim for the supermarket to gather food supplies and check out the Church of the Good Shepherd. The church is a lovely little church on the shore of the lake and has possibly the most stunning view from a church I’ve ever seen. (Or would have been if the weather had been a little clearer, but we got the gist of it!) One end of the church features a clear glass window, rather than the traditional stained glass, that overlooks the water. It’s a very thoughtful touch. Nearby there is also a bronze sheepdog statue to commemorate the hardy dogs who helped the local shepherds to graze in the harsh mountain conditions, which I thought was a lovely tribute. The statue stands proudly above the scrub around it, so it stands out well, very sweet!
That evening we had a snugly night in. As our room was so small we opted to settle in the shared common room and bizarrely had the whole place to ourselves. So we stoked the fire with wood, (romantic!) covered ourselves with blankets and watched the sun go down over the lake. This was one of the hostels that didn’t provide wifi so we were internet-less for a few days. Which was a bit different, and quite refreshing.
I’d also like to add that as there is little/no light pollution, we also got to see THE brightest stars. I was absolutely gobsmacked at how clear and bright they were. Quite extraordinary.
The following day the sky had cleared and we were met with views like this:
I mean check that out!
Not only was it stunning, being as we were backpacking in a shoulder season we also had the place to ourselves. It was so wonderfully quiet and picturesque. Probably one of my favorite days on our trip. I think if we returned in high season, when there is all the summer water sports and holiday makers… I’m not sure I’d enjoy it as much.
Our plan for the day was to climb Mt John. (See the steep rise on the left hand side of the picture above? Up there!) Which overlooks Lake Tekapo. It was a bit of a steep climb (for me and my unfit lungs anyway) but was actually not as far as we’d anticipated.
At the top is a viewing station and stargazing observatory which you can visit. (And a car park, most people drive up to it apparently!) And a cafe which we swiftly made use of. The views of the lake and surrounding mountains are breathtaking, and the blue glacial water looked even more spectacular.
I found it fascinating that you could see the line of snow where each mountain reached a certain altitude. Almost like someone had come along and drawn it on.
Return by lake shore
Following our photo sesh, Ian marking his territory with a stick and a cheeky sausage roll in the Astro cafe, we started our descent. Instead of backtracking we followed a track around the other side of the observatory and walked down to the lake shore. Then back around Lake Tekapo till we reached the town again. We had a wonderful time gambling down the mountain, this time taking our time (and remembering to top up on sunscreen, New Zealand is burn central!) And I discovered a knack for pistol squats.
On our way back around we discovered a small (probably children’s) zip-line thing which we childishly played on. Till some actual children came and then we scarpered.
We did around 11 miles walking that day, which for me was VERY good, and spent very little money. In terms of food we were pretty much eating out of the supermarket to keep costs down – with the exception of the coffee and sausage roll at the top of Mt John. Which we did because it was just too beautiful not to sit there and indulge. And as our activity for the day was just walking, we had a pretty healthy/active stay in Lake Tekapo – and I loved every moment. Look at the smile on my face.
But – the beauty of the area only fed my enthusiasm for our next stop. The infamous Mount Cook. Please subscribe, so you don’t miss the update on this incredible destination!
Rachel On Route.
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