If you’ve got an enduro, trail or adventure Bike, chances are that it doesn’t have a centre stand. And while you might be able to buy and fit one, that just adds more weight and clumsy metalwork under the bike and reduces your ground clearance. So how do you get the Wheel off the ground for chain maintenance and puncture repairs out on the lanes? You make yourself a portable trail stand on the cheap!
THE DONOR
OK so first off we need to sort a donor for the components of our stand. We need some lightweight tubing, some adjustment and locking mechanisms and some cushioning end pads to avoid damaging the bike and the stand slipping out when the wheel is out. Oh and some tools might be handy too …
The answer comes in the form of a mobility walking frame. But before you worry we’d mugged a pensioner we’re happy to report this was not the case and no oldies were left immobile by this project. We picked up this frame from a second-hand shop for a paltry £8 and it’s in perfect condition.
The bits we are going to need are the rear two legs, a small section of the tubing, the brass Locking Pins and springs and the end plugs. You could use a set of adjustable aluminium walking sticks or crutches, but as there were none in the shop when we visied, the walking frame is fine.
THE DIMENSIONS
First off we need to sort out how long we need the stand to be. So measure the distance between the bottom of the swingarm and the ground. Your stand will need to be at least this long to start with and then be adjustable to take the wheel off the ground. We’re making this for a KTM 690 Enduro R, but as it’s an 18″ rear wheel, the dimensions are likely to wok for our EXC250 and just about every other dirt bike. For adventure bikes, the distance may be less if there’s a smaller wheel.
Just in case you are wondering, that’s a MotOz RallZ tyre from Adventure Spec – thoroughly recommended!
Next put the two donor legs together to see how much more length you are going to need to lift the wheel. This will determine how long the central section needs to be.
THE MIDDLE BIT
Now we know what we need, then we can return to the donor frame. Unbolt the component parts to leave you with the rear hoop of tubing. One side of this will be used to make the central section
Only one of the legs will be needed, and the bottom of it already has a brass locking pin. As the length is correct we are going to use the upper hole where the frame previously bolted together as the location for the new locking pins.
For symmetry and to ensure there isn’t a ‘right way round’ for the central section, we are going to make the distance between the new pin and the end the same as the existing pin. You could do this by eye, but as you have a tape measure there, do it properly and remember – measure twice – cut once!
THE TIDY UP
If you have cut where there is a previous bolt point, there is a fair chance that there will be a inner sleeve there to add strength, You need to remove this using a screwdriver and then pliers as, if left in place, the locking pins will not be long enough. We are finished with the tubing now but don’t throw it away – that’s going to come in useful for future projects!
Once the piece is cut, tidy up the cut end of the tube initially with a bench grinder or hand-held grinder and then finishing up with sandpaper. Ensure all sharp edges are removed. Remember to wear safety glasses – there’s some nasty sharp bits of metal about!
To fit the pins you will probably need to make the holes bigger with a suitable drill. Hold the tube in a vice to do this and ensure the drill is straight.
THE LOCKING PINS
Now we need to fit the locking pins to the one end of the middle section that doesn’t have them. These are going to come from the other side of the walking frame’s rear loop. The pins are a simple brass head and a wire spring, so can be pushed in away from the holes once you have removed the plastic plug at the top.
Once inside the tube, hook them out with a piece of bent wire or an exhaust spring puller and remove the pins carefully. They can now be fitted into the central section of the stand by pushing down into the tube until they click into place. Nearly done!
THE FINAL ASSEMBLY
We are now on the final bit and if all has gone to plan then it’s pretty simple. Refit a plastic end plug that you removed from the frame prior to removing the locking pins. Fitting this will ensure the inner tube is snug inside the outer tube and easily slides in and out. It may need a few taps with a mallet to firmly seat the plug.
Now you can fit the two legs to either end of the central section and the portable trail stand is done. If it’s too long at this stage, then you can always cut down the length of the legs by removing the rubber ferrules at the ends and cutting the tube here. If it’s a bit short, swap the ends of the legs over to put the ferrule on the other end and the plastic ring at the other. This will give you more adjustment options.
THE END RESULT
Now the stand is completed, you can use it to elevate the rear wheel quickly and safely. Simply extend the stand to the required length, push the bike up against the side stand to raise the wheel off the ground and position the portable stand. The bike, in this case our KTM, is now ready to work on. If you are on the side of the trail in terrible weather conditions, this little bit of kit will be a godsend – it may even become an adventure essential!
Alternatively, you can use the stand under the bike’s frame as this leaves the rear of the bike completely free for wheel changing and puncture repairs.
You can also use the stand under the front of the sump guard to raise the front of the bike for front wheel removal, so don’t be in too much of a rush to cut it down for rear wheel use only!
This post first appeared on Cambodia Motorcycle Tours | Ride Cambodia, please read the originial post: here
