(Written for and published in USPeople, the USP employee newsletter in 2014)
Nestled deep in the Lesser Himalayas of West Bengal, two thousand meters above sea level is a Hill station known as the Queen of the Himalayas. Darjeeling is a Tibetan name which translated to English means the Land of The Thunderbolt.
Historically, this Hill Station was of strategic importance as a British outpost in the Himalayas. Later it was fashioned out by the British for their summer residence and then for the commercial cultivation of tea. The hill retreat has a hundred and eighty years of rich history since the British East India Company took it over from the then warring kingdoms of Nepal and Sikkim.
“The one land that all men desire to see, and having seen once by even a glimpse would not give that glimpse for the shows of the rest of the world combined.” Mark Twain said after visiting Darjeeling.
| The journey by road to Darjeeling provides many such views |
Darjeeling is high on the wish list of tourists the world over, owing to its scenic beauty and numerous treks. Tourism and Tea are the two major industries in this Hill district.
We planned a visit in the month of April which is most comfortable in terms of weather and the warmth of the spring season ensures the best of views. I and my wife set out with hearts full of expectation and eagerness to explore every bit of this beautiful hill retreat.
The road from Siliguri, the nearest railhead and airport, is a typical tortuous mountain road with ever increasing altitude that goes around one hill after the other. It is a very pleasant ride offering beautiful views of the mountains and tea gardens. A three and half hour journey takes us to Darjeeling.
We decide to avoid the conventional tourist places, the ‘five points’ and the ‘seven points’ sort of site seeing on this trip. We are more interested in having a peek into the heart of this small town, maybe find our own sweet spot on its map that is not frequented by many and capture some unique aspects of life in this hill station in some good photographs. Collecting a map of the town from the tourist information centre is a good starting point towards that end. We decide to walk our way around the town and try to avoid hiring vehicles as much as possible. Having set out thus, on foot, we savor every visual delight that this quaint little hill station throws up along the way.
Chowrastha – Heart of Darjeeling
Walking up the famous Mall Road one reaches the big town square ‘the Chowrastha’ which is undoubtedly the heart of this town. With restaurants, tea shops, souvenir and curio stores lining two sides, a large amphitheatre on another and a picturesque panorama of mountains on the last, this is the perfect place for relaxing, a cup of steaming Darjeeling tea in hand.
| The statue of Nepalese poet Bhanubhakta Acharya at the Darjeeling town square. He translated the epic Ramayana from Sanskrit to Nepali and is revered as the ‘Adikavi’ or the first poet of Nepal. |
This neat and clean town square is favored by tourists and townspeople alike for spending the afternoons. We spend quite some time sitting on a bench, just relaxing and enjoying the view. It is not unusual to find one of the talented local bands dishing out popular music for the bystanders.
The path to Aloobari
A narrow lane, out of Chowrastha brings one to the road going to the villages of Aloobari and Phoolbari. The three kilometer walk to the Aloobari Monastery is one of the most refreshing ones I have had in a long time. The imposing grey mountains, the deep valleys and the lush greenery are a treat for the eyes.
Away from the congestion of the town, unfrequented by tourists; the path is not on the conventional ‘To See’ or ‘To Do’ list for visitors. As one follows the path and goes up the hill, habitation dwindles, sounds become fainter and the breeze is stronger and chillier. The road is like a corridor lined with huge Japanese pines. Midway, we hit upon an open space with a sloping meadow on one side and a wall of sighing conifers on the other. It seems just like the place we have been looking for.
| A small village on the way to Aloobari. |
Sitting on a big boulder by the roadside we dabble in the serenity of the spot. The strong cool breeze whistles through the needles of the pines. Blended in perfect harmony with the surroundings are a small hamlet and adjoining rice fields at the bottom of the meadow. The wind brings with it faint sounds of children playing in the distant fields. From some far off rice terrace, the dull drone of a power tiller is barely discernible. It is a vantage point before which the Middle Himalayas are laid out in full splendor. Hilton’s ‘Shangri La’ may not have been any different from this.
Darjeeling Rangit Valley Passenger Ropeway
One thing that no one should miss when in Darjeeling is the ride on the Ropeway. It is a two and a half kilometer cable car ride from the hills of Darjeeling to Puttabong Tukvar Tea Estate. Tukvar is one of the largest and oldest tea gardens in Darjeeling that started commercial operations way back in the 1850s.
The two way ride lasts 40 mins. The cable car descends from the hills of Darjeeling, goes over a series of mountain spurs with their slopes covered in Tea plantations.
| The picturesque Tukvar Tea Estate comprises of many such slopes planted with tea bushes. |
The rapid loss of altitude on the way down causes ones ear drums to buzz. As the cable car slides down the line and goes deeper into the valley, the air becomes heavier. Compounded by the languor induced by the quick loss of altitude, a heavy curtain of silence induces a mild dizziness. The cable car stops midway, for about half a minute. Suspended thus, over a hundred feet above the tea plantation, we are spellbound by the surrounding verdancy. It is like being trapped in a floating bubble. Amid the undulating greens of the tea plantation below, the grey of the huge mountains around and the vast expanse of the clear blue sky above, our bubble seems very fragile. It is a humbling experience the beauty of which can hardly be expressed in words.
| View from the Rangeet Valley Cable Car. |
Take a stroll when in Darjeeling
Not hiring a tourist cab turns out to be a wise decision. We read the map and walk to whichever place we want to see; taking shortcuts wherever available. The streets in Darjeeling are a lot of fun to walk on. Devoid of excessive traffic and relatively pollution free, they provide great views as well as fresh cool breeze all the time.
We take a stroll down a walkway near the Chowrastha that is used by the townspeople for their morning walk and recreation. The peacefulness of this place coupled with a magnificent view of the valley is very enticing. The calm and unhurried demeanor of the townspeople gives the impression that time has stopped passing. It is as if we have been transported back in time, away from the hectic schedule of our own busy lives.
| A peaceful village road in Darjeeling |
To renew the pleasurable experience we revisit this beautiful walkway, early in the morning on the last day of our stay. We are elated to find everything shrouded in a blanket of thick mist. It looks all the more amazing. The only sounds audible are the pitter patter of dewdrops falling from overhead leaves.
Last but not in any way the least
Our sojourn into Darjeeling would have been complete but for a few other things that are typical tourist attractions and in a way define the history, geography and spirit of this hill station. These are a few things one must not miss when in Darjeeling.
A visit to Darjeeling is never really complete without a view of the sunrise and the five peaks of Mount Kangchenjunga from the Tiger Hill Observatory. Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world. The Toy Train of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways which has been accorded World Heritage status by UNESCO is another integral feature of Darjeeling. The Gorkha war memorial located on the gigantic Batasia railway loop commemorates Gorkha martyrs in various wars. It also offers a beautiful view of the Kangchenjunga.
Clockwise from Left: The beautiful walkway near Chowrastha. Top Right: A blanket of mist early in the morning. Bottom Right: This walkway is an integral part of the morning routine of the townspeople. |
| We are lucky to be gifted this beautiful view of a pair of rainbows after a light afternoon drizzle. |
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and museum is definitely worth visiting if one is interested in the history of mountaineering and the conquests of Mt. Everest. The Darjeeling Zoo is in the same neighborhood. The Red Panda, the rare Snow and Clouded Leopards and various types of beautiful Himalayan Pheasants are an interesting watch.
| View of Mt. Kangchenjunga from the Batasia Loop. |
Clockwise, Bottom Left: The newly constructed town hall, Gorkha Rang Manch. Top Left: A young Red Panda playing in the Darjeeling Zoological Park. Right: The statue of Sherpa Tenzin Norgay, outside the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. |
Having seen all these places, if one can coax his exhausted body to go a little further, a short uphill walk to the Mahakala temple is definitely worth the effort. One can enjoy the afternoon, resting on the lawn, amid Buddhist prayer flags fluttering all around. The uniqueness of this temple is in the fact that it has shared altars for deities of both Hindu and Buddhist religions.
| Amid Buddhist Prayer flags in the Mahakala temple. |
As we conclude two days of sightseeing, it is time to pack up for a return to our normal life and its mundane businesses. Exhausted physically, but spiritually invigorated, with plenty of fresh new memories and memory cards full of beautiful moments, we make our return journey ‘downhill’ as the locals call it here. The memories of this trip will endure forever in our minds.
