In 1919, the brilliantly-minded Marcel Tolkowsky revealed the ideal cut for a Diamond.

From a famous family of diamond cutters, he’d spent years studying how diamonds reflect light.

Today, Tolkowsky is celebrated as the father of the modern round Brilliant Cut – still the most popular diamond cut, especially for engagement rings.

What is a brilliant cut?

The brilliant cut is special because it maximises the return of white (also known as ‘colourless’) light through the top (or ‘table’) of the diamond – a phenomenon gemmologists call ‘brilliance’.

A mathematician and trained engineer, Tolkowsky recommended the best symmetry and proportions to achieve this.

The result is a diamond that resembles a cone shape. In profile, it appears as two pyramids – the ‘crown’ and the ‘pavilion’ – placed base to base, with a ‘girdle’ around the perimeter.

The relationship of these areas is absolutely critical – cut too deep or too shallow, light tends to leak from the sides or bottom of the diamond.

The other crucial factor is the number and form of facets on the diamond – its flat, polished surfaces – all of which can alter the behaviour of light inside the stone.

According to Tolkowsky, the ideal number was 57, or 58 if it had a culet (a flat point) at the apex of the pavilion. As well as a precisely measured table, the crown must have 33 facets, while the pavilion has to have 24 or 25.

Expertly applied using Tolkowsky’s scientific calculations, not only will this cut maximise a diamond’s brilliance, but also contribute to its ‘fire’ (flashes of coloured light) and ‘scintillation’ (flashes of light emitted when the diamond is moved) – and thus its overall sparkle and desirability.

The Perth Mint’s luxury jewellery boutique carries a stunning range of designs featuring brilliant cut diamonds, such as this elegant engagement ring featuring a sparkling 1.01 carat brilliant cut white diamond.

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