There’s a certain mystic element that a photographer looks for when roaming the streets. It’s not necessarily being at the height of fashion, and it’s definitely not someone who’s chasing trends. It’s a sort of confidence and vibrancy that radiates outwards — the kind of person you can’t help but stare at. You want to hang out with them, talk to them… maybe even be them. They’re not wearing clothing to be fashionable, they’re fashionable because their clothes are an organic extension of their essence.

That might sound intangible, but that’s what catches photographer Melodie Jeng‘s eye when she walks the streets. She isn’t looking for fashion, she’s looking for style.

This ineffable quality isn’t something that can be bottled and sold at Bloomingdale’s, and it may not even be something that can be taught (although The Devil Wears Prada makes a very compelling case), style is a part of a person’s whole being. So it’s hard for Jeng to pin down why she stops and takes pictures of a few people out of all the thousands she encounters on the streets of New York. She just knows what she wants to shoot when she sees it.

These unexplainable elements are what makes street photography such a joy to look at. They acknowledge that there are some people who just have “it” — who walk around the world with a sense of cool that most of us can simply gawk over. As Uproxx prepared to launch our own Style section, I spoke to Jeng about what inspires her to seek out these mavens for her art, what draws her to look for beauty in passersby, and what true style means to her.

How long have you been a photographer and what drew you to taking pictures?

I always just knew I wanted to be a photographer since I was a teenager. I studied it in college, and I graduated in 2012, so that’s about how long I’ve been shooting for. Actually, that’s like five or six years, that’s crazy.

Were you always drawn to fashion photography or is that something you fell into after college?

I always knew I liked fashion photography. But I was also interested in fine art and documentary photography. My background in school was fine art and documentary. I think it’s important to be well-rounded. Fashion photography that I like most tends to be influenced by other types of photography. I thought street fashion was a good way to get into it because it’s in the middle. It’s a little bit documentary as well.

When you’re walking on the streets looking for style, what do you look for in a subject?

It’s hard to say! You know the style when you like it. Some people, they like super-colorful things or certain brands. I would say the fashion that I tend to like is less about being flashy. For me, it’s about when people mix and match different styles and outfits in new ways that I would have never thought of.

It also depends on a person. They have to be comfortable or confident in what they’re wearing. So yeah, it’s actually more neutral, natural things. I want them to be able to be timeless but also say something about the period of time they represent. The current trend but not in a disposable way. Something that tells the period of time but also something that can still be stylish in the future.

Do you spend a lot of time reading about what’s trending or do you find that on your own?

If I’m shooting street style at Fashion Week then each night I’m also skimming through the fashion shows to get an idea of the casting and just the general style of the shows. I do keep up. But it’s not like I know every single designer. I do know the styles that are trending. But I don’t necessarily pay attention to it, or I just take what I like and I go with that. Fashion is moving so fast nowadays and I see the clothes so early, it’s almost like I get over it by the time they’re in the stores.

You’re constantly surrounded by fashion and stylish people. How does that affect your own style?

I don’t really consider myself a stylish person! I mean I don’t really take photos of myself. For a while I really didn’t care. I’m usually a jeans and a t-shirt type of girl. But I started to pay attention to the quality, I guess. That’s something that’s started to matter more. It’ll be pricier but honestly, it’s going to last longer than cheaper (clothes) so it’s always worth it in the end.

What do you love about what you get to do? What do you love about photography?

It’s really cool! I’ve been able to travel a lot and meet a lot of cool people. People know me from my Fashion Week photos. And that’s like a boot camp because I’m shooting every day and every night. Right now, I am trying to figure out the next step. I’ve been working with some brands on online content or shoots. That’s the direction I want to go in, more editorial and more shoots. But I’m very thankful. I work for myself I can make my own schedule, and I have a lot of freedom. That’s something I don’t take for granted.

How does one get into more commercial shoots and brands as a photographer? Do they get to know you from your blog, do you reach out to them?

I think with the jobs I’ve had so far, Instagram and my website have really helped me. I don’t post as often anymore, but most of my work has come through word of mouth. People I’ve known just from different jobs, different connections. You have to make sure you have a proper portfolio and body of work that works well for what you want to do.

Do you have a philosophy for your photography or a life philosophy?

Well, in general, I try to be a compassionate person so, ‘treat others how you’d like to be treated.’ But there is one quote that I heard recently, it was by the author of, You Are A Badass, Jen Sincero. She’s a life coach so she was talking to people who are stuck in jobs they don’t want to do and they want to take the next step or take some risks to try something new. A lot of times we tell ourselves, “No, but this might happen.” So one of her quotes is, “When you succumb to fear you are under the illusion that you can predict the future.”

I think of Nike’s motto, “Just do it.” That’s something I’m still working out, but yeah, it’s just about doing. Personally, I’ve just been trying to be aware of when I’m telling myself no, and just not being afraid. Fear is what drives a lot of us, and also caring about what other people think. When you stop caring, it’s just such a great feeling. You’ve just got to focus on yourself.