In my last post, I wrote about the benefits of not adding Seam Allowances until AFTER certain adjustments and processes are done. I lamented on the blanket use of a single width of seam allowance every where on commercial patterns from the usual popular pattern companies and I explained a little on why this is problematic. In professional practice, dressmakers, tailors, and ready-to-wear garment producers will use different widths of seam allowances at different parts of the pattern because this is actually more efficient in garment making.
Custom/bespoke dressmakers and tailors will likely have their own preferred widths (for different seams and seam types) in consideration of alterations required during the fitting process and for potential future need (to lengthen the garment or increase width). I have seen tailor-made dresses with 1-inch seam allowances on the side seams. This is not surprising when considering that custom-made usually equates with expensive, so one must provide for long-term wear in terms of accommodating a client's possible expanding girth.
