Redness, tightness, tingling … Sensitive skin does not stand much and reacts to the slightest aggression. How do you care for it on a day-to-day basis and help it become less responsive?
What are the main symptoms?
There is no true visible pathology, except for a few transient rashes or rednesses. But the discomfort is almost permanent, explains Dr. Baspeyras.
This is why, for a long time, the problem has not really been taken seriously. In some people, however, flushes appear (rashes) and rashes (eruptions), which can turn into pathology such as rosacea.
What does the skin react?
Sensitive and intolerant skin responds to stimuli that have no effect on other skin types. It is even what characterizes it. A gust of wind, a few minutes in the cold, a water too limestone, and here it reddened, heated, tingles, becomes uncomfortable.
The same phenomenon can also occur on contact with a product too fragrant, following a shave a little pressed…
How to explain this excessive sensitivity?
Three major biological mechanisms are responsible: alteration of the cutaneous barrier, hyperactivity of the cutaneous nervous system and oxidative stress (aggression by free radicals).
Indeed, the epidermis presents an alteration of its barrier function. This phenomenon promotes dehydration of the skin and especially the penetration of potentially irritating agents. In addition, the skin secretes excess neuromediators, as well as pro-inflammatory cytokines (substances involved in inflammation, produced by skin cells).
These neuromediators invade the tissues and cause dilation of the vessels, creating discomfort and excessive reactivity.
There is also an overproduction of free radicals. And external aggressions do not help matters. As soon as the skin barrier is altered, polluting particles can penetrate more easily. Cold, hot, wind, tobacco, and other stresses can also attack it.
What precautions to take?
Before applying a new product, it is necessary to learn to detect the presence of irritating ingredients: certain preservatives, retinoids (or acidic vitamin A), fruit acids, chemical sunscreens, essential oils soaps.
The less the skin is subjected to substances that may irritate it, the better it is. Moreover, for Sensitive Skin, fewer ingredients in a formula, it is also more safety!
The best friends of sensitive skin are the neutral products: fragrance-free, preservatives or surfactants and with the minimum of ingredients.
By limiting their number, the risk of reaction is reduced. This is what more and more brands of specialized cosmetics do, by offering products containing less than a dozen components! And sometimes using processes and packaging (packing) that makes it possible to do without preservatives.
How to take care of sensitive skin?
Make a gentle cleaning. This is an essential gesture, which helps rid the skin of potential “aggressors. Nevertheless, care must be taken to ensure that it is not irritating itself.
For Dr Haudrey Assier, dermatologist, it is necessary above all to use mild cleansers, without surfactants too” hard “. And avoid aggressive gestures, such as scrubs and exfoliations:
Do not stack too many products.
Limit the makeup to the minimum by choosing instead products in specific ranges formulated for intolerant skins (Avène, La Roche-Posay …).
Do not change too often cream, to avoid intolerance to new components.
To touch her skin as little as possible: the less she is stimulated, even by simple contact, the better she is.
Do not rub it, but touch it with your fingertips, and do not use a sponge or press with cotton while removing makeup.
Avoid too hot baths, high pressure showers and other sauna and steam rooms.
Do not eat too many spicy dishes, limit alcoholic beverages.
Avoid sudden temperature changes if possible.
And side dermato, what solutions?
To calm these skins that any stress (examination, professional maintenance …) can excite, I propose to do Led sessions: red light especially is anti-inflammatory.
At a rate of once a week for a month, then in maintenance once a month, explains Dr. Baspeyras. This allows being quiet then for a few months.
What if the redness, especially on the cheeks and nose, become permanent? It is either rosacea, which can be treated by sessions of vascular laser; or rosacea, which is the last stage of sensitive skin.
In this case, it is better to consult a dermatologist. The treatments are then medical, local in the form of gel or cream, or oral (antibiotics), if necessary.
What are the assets to be preferred in creams?
Niacinamide, anti-inflammatory and soothing, promotes the synthesis of ceramides, the lipids essential to the function of the skin barrier.
Thermal waters also have an anti-inflammatory effect on the epidermis, as they are rich in trace elements such as selenium.
Oats limit inflammatory reactions by decreasing the release of neuropeptides through the skin.
Alpha-bisabolol (soothing) and licorice extracts (gluconolactone and glycyrrhetinic acid) help to fight redness and irritation.
Extracts of plants such as Roman chamomile, witch hazel, calendula and blueberry, known for their soothing and decongestant action, are present in organic cosmetics.
Vegetable pigments such as escine, rutin, red vine, regulate the microcirculation and strengthen the vessels in case of rosacea.
Our sensitive skin care.
Against the couperose, this freshly cream-colored gel cream contains a decongesting licorice extract. Endothelium reduces redness, promotes microcirculation and reduces blood vessels with a new generation thermoregulating agent.
In this fresh and organic texture, soothing pink clay and a natural complex that nourishes the skin, combining kombu algae, which stimulates cell renewal and rose floral water, which soothes and hydrates.
The floral waters of blueberry, barley and witch hazel, soothing plants, are complemented by sweet almond and argan oils. The seaweed extract promotes the synthesis of collagen. The formula is designed to make the skin less reactive and smoother.
4-Special make-up remover.
This water composed of micelles (microemulsion) of vegetable origin combines a very soft surfactant, moisturizing glycerine and oat Rhealba, soothing and restorative.
This unctuous cream contains three patented technologies, ginseng, algae extract and thermal water to restore the skin barrier, soothe inflammation and increase the resistance of small vessels to temperature variations.
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