Electrical Hazards: Protecting Yourself, Your Home, and Your Assets
Can you imagine living without the conveniences of microwave ovens, telephones, televisions, home computers, washing machines, and dryers? By recognizing electrical hazards that may be present in your home, you can protect your family, home, and assets from damage caused by electrical surges Some of the more costly appliances that use or conduct electricity like air conditioners, heaters, televisions, garage door openers, telephones, and well pumps have the possibility of failure. Lightning and electrical surges can also cause a shock hazard or fire hazard if protective steps are not taken. The good news: DAMAGE CAUSED BY MOST ELECTRICAL SURGES CAN BE PREVENTED. To prevent damage caused by electrical surges, consider utilizing lightning protection systems and surge protection devices, investing in Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs), and following some general prevention tips.
How to Choose Surge Protection for Your Home
You may not realize it, but your stereo system, home computer, television, VCR, microwave oven -- anything with internal electronic circuits -- is under attack every day. The attacks are silent, but destructive.
The culprit -- POWER SURGES. Power surges are extremely brief spikes in electrical power that burn up the electrical circuits inside appliances and electronics. For more detail about what power surges are and where they come from, read Facts about Power Surges.
Not only can power surges destroy appliances and electronics, they can ruin electrical outlets, light switches, light bulbs, air conditioner components, and garage door openers. How can you protect yourself?
Surge protection devices can prevent the damages from most power surges. There are two types:
- Service entrance surge protection device, which is mounted at or near the incoming electrical service
- Point-of-use surge protection device, which is used at the appliance being protected and includes the type of surge protectors that plug into a wall outlet
Preventing Water Damage in Your Home
From broken pipes to leaking appliances, water damage can wreak havoc, destroying your home, personal property, and irreplaceable family heirlooms. In many case water damage can be avoided with routine maintenance and assistance from qualified contractors.
It will be well worth your time to take a few extra moments every week to check potential trouble spots in and around your home. Early detection could mean the difference between a simple mop-up job and major construction repairs.
- Inside Your Home
- Roof
- Hardware
Roof System Components
All steep-slope roof systems (i.e., roofs with slopes of 25 percent or more) have five basic components:
- Roof covering: shingles, tile, slate or metal and underlayment that protect the sheathing from weather.
- Sheathing: boards or sheet material that are fastened to the roof rafters to cover a house or building.
- Roof structure: rafters and trusses constructed to support the sheathing.
- Flashing: sheet metal or other material installed into a roof system’s various joints and valleys to prevent water seepage.
- Drainage: a roof system’s design features, such as shape, slope and layout that affect its ability to shed water.
Ventilation and Insulation Are Key
Even Roofs Have Enemies
Choosing a Contractor
Don't Let a Finished Basement Finish You
Steps You Can Take to Reduce Sewer and Drain Losses
When it rains, it pours, and sewers and drains can back up, filling your basement with foul-smelling water and sewage. Each year, sewer and drain backups cause millions of dollars in damage to the homes owned.
Since no one wants to experience the mess, inconvenience and out-of-pocket expenses that come with a sewer or drain backup, preventing losses from occurring is the best solution.
Make sure your drainage system is working properly.
- Gutter downspouts should extend far enough away from the foundation of the house so that water is carried away from basement walls.
- Your yard should be graded to slope away from the house so surface water is drained away.
- If your gutters connect to storm sewers, keep drain lines clear.
- Check-valve devices allow water and sewage to flow away from the drain, preventing water and sewage from backing up into the drain.
- Gate-valve devices operate like a gate, closing and shutting off the flow of water and sewage.
- Valves are manually or automatically operated.
- No Frozen Pipes
Your carpet's soaked. Your furniture's ruined. You have to walk through six inches of water to get across your kitchen. You've fallen victim to a catastrophe, but it wasn't a flood or hurricane. You could have avoided this disaster. You can prevent frozen pipes.
Frozen pipes aren't just an inconvenience. An average of a quarter-million families have their homes ruined and their lives disrupted each winter…all because of water pipes that freeze, burst and destroy.
And if you think recovering from frozen pipes is as simple as calling a plumber, think again.
An eighth-inch (three millimeter) crack in a pipe can spew up to 250 gallons (946 liters) of water a day, wrecking floors, furniture and keepsakes. Both plastic (PVC) and copper pipes may burst.
Imagine if your pipes were to freeze and break while you were away on vacation: Your homecoming would be a soggy one and your fix-it plea to a plumber would have to be accompanied by calls to a contractor, carpet-layer, painter and furniture store. Damage might be so severe that you and your family would have to move out of your home while repairs are made.
By taking a few simple precautions, you can save yourself the mess, money and aggravation frozen pipes cause. Here are a few simple steps to protect your home or apartment:
Before the Cold Hits
Insulate pipes in your home's crawl spaces and attic. These exposed pipes are most susceptible to freezing. Remember: The more insulation you use, the better protected your pipes will be.
Heat tape or thermostatically-controlled heat cables can be used to wrap pipes. Be sure to use products approved by an independent testing organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories Inc., and only for the use intended (exterior or interior). Closely follow all manufacturers' installation and operation instructions.
Seal leaks that allow cold air inside, near where pipes are located. Look for air leaks around electrical wiring, dryer vents and pipes. Use caulk or insulation to keep the cold out and the heat in. With severe cold, a tiny opening can let in enough cold air to cause a pipe to freeze.
Disconnect garden hoses and, if practical, use an indoor valve to shut off and drain water from pipes leading to outside faucets. This reduces the chance of freezing in the short span of pipe just inside the house.
When the Mercury Drops
A trickle of hot and cold water might be all it takes to keep your pipes from freezing. Let warm water drip overnight, preferably from a faucet on an outside wall.
Open cabinet doors to allow heat to get to uninsulated pipes under sinks and appliances near exterior walls.
If You're Away
Set the thermostat in your house no lower than 55 degrees (12 degrees Celsius).
Ask a friend or neighbor to check your house daily to make sure it's warm enough to prevent freezing, or…
Shut off and drain the water system. Be aware that if you have a fire protection sprinkler system in your house, it will be deactivated when you shut off the water.
If Your Pipes Freeze
Don't take chances. If you turn on your faucets and nothing comes out, leave the faucets turned on and call a plumber. If you detect that your water pipes have frozen and burst, turn off the water at the main shut-off valve in the house; leave the water faucets turned on. (Make sure everyone in your family knows where the water shut-off valve is and how to open and close it.)
Never try to thaw a pipe with a torch or other open flame. Water damage is preferable to burning down your house. You may be able to thaw a frozen pipe with the warm air from a hair dryer. Start by warming the pipe as close to the faucet as possible, working toward the coldest section of pipe.
Do not use electrical appliances in areas of standing water because you could be electrocuted.
Ice dams and attic condensation can cause severe damage to homes. Attic ventilation is one of the key factors in preventing this type of damage in northern climates.
This article explains the importance of attic ventilation and other factors that can help prevent ice dams and attic condensation.
Cold Climates
Two types of attic water damage are common in cold climates: ice dams and condensation of water vapor on cold surfaces in the attic.
Ice Dams
Ice dams sometimes occur on sloping roofs in climates with extended below freezing temperatures combined with several inches of snow. When winter conditions are just right (usually outside air temperatures in the low 20°s (°F) for several days with several inches of snow on the roof), ice dams can form at the eaves if the air temperature in the attic rises to above freezing. The elevated attic air temperature causes snow on the roof to melt and run down the sloping roof. Once the snowmelt runs down beyond the exterior walls below, it refreezes.
If this cycle repeats over several days, the freezing snowmelt builds up and forms a dam of ice, behind which water ponds. The ponding water can back up under the roof covering and leak into the attic or along exterior walls.
Research indicates keeping the attic air temperature below freezing when the outside air temperature is in the low 20s (°F) can reduce the occurrence of ice dams. If the outside air temperature is colder than the low 20ºs, keeping the attic air temperature below freezing is usually not a problem. When the outside air temperature is higher than the low 20ºs, the snowmelt on the roof usually does not refreeze at the roof eaves. Research has shown sun exposure in the winter has little effect on attic air temperature. Warm air penetrating into the attic from living spaces below is usually the culprit in the formation of ice dams.
Attic Condensation
Condensation of water vapor on cold surfaces in attics can cause attic wood products to rot, which can lead to costly repairs. Condensation typically occurs when warm, moist air migrates into the attic from the living spaces below. Research indicates unusually high humidity levels in the home's living spaces is strongly associated with attic condensation problems.
Building codes have some requirements that attempt to prevent the problems of ice dams and attic condensation. But codes do not address all the issues, and many houses are built without following building codes. It is the role of the builder or designer to understand the relationship of humidity and air movement when designing and constructing the house so these problems don't occur.
Prevention
Your Guide to Woodburners
Are you sure your woodburner or solid fuel burning appliance, is installed and maintained properly?
These appliances must be carefully used to help reduce the chance of a fire. Review the information in your unit's instruction manual to help you determine if it is installed and maintained properly. If you are not sure, contact your local fire department, building official or a certified chimney sweep for additional information.
Your safety depends upon a properly installed, operated and maintained solid fuel burning system.
Your Guide to Woodburners & Solid Fuel Burning Appliances
Solid fuel burning appliances are enjoying widespread popularity. In addition to the savings in fuel costs, some have been installed for the “romantic feel” they add to a home. Although these units may save fuel and add charm, they have become the largest source of heating related fires in U.S. homes today.
According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), solid fuel burning appliances cause approximately 5-10% of all residential home fires. In addition, solid fuel burning appliances cause an average of over 300 deaths and 200 injuries per year. Some of the major causes of solid fuel burning appliance related fires are:
- Inadequate clearances from the unit to combustibles, such as walls, ceilings, floors, and furniture.
- Excessive creosote buildup in the chimney. Creosote is a black substance that resembles a tar-like liquid or small black flakes. Creosote burns easily.
- An improperly installed or poorly maintained chimney.
- Improper installation and maintenance of the appliance itself.
Planning for a Solid Fuel Appliance
Before buying, take time to do some planning. Contact your local fire department and/or building code officials to inquire about local ordinances on woodburning and other solid fuel burning appliances. Also, determine if a permit is necessary before you install such a unit.
If you live where a solid fuel burning appliance has already been installed, try to obtain the operating manual from the previous owner. If you cannot, try to locate the manufacturer’s information plate (label) mounted on the unit, ask a dealer that sells your unit for another copy, or contact the manufacturer.
When looking for appliances, look for one that is UL (Underwriters Laboratories) listed or tested by a nationally recognized testing laboratory; shows quality craftsmanship; has tight-fitting doors and a detailed operating manual.
If your appliance is listed by a nationally recognized testing laboratory it should meet minimum industry-accepted safety standards. Check your unit to see if it is listed by one of these organizations. There is a difference between being tested and being listed. Testing simply means the unit was tested, “listed” means the unit was tested and passed using the appropriate national standards from Underwriters Laboratories. Examples of nationally recognized testing laboratories that test and list solid fuel burning appliances include:
- Applied Research Labs (www.arl-test.com)
- Canadian Standards Association
- (www.csa-international.org)
- Omni Environmental Services (www.omni-test.com)
- Underwriters Laboratories, Inc. (www.ul.com)
- Underwriters Laboratories of Canada (www.ulc.ca)
- ITS Warnock Hersey International, Inc. (www.warnockhersey.com)
Types of Woodburners
Placement of the Woodburner
Masonry Chimneys
Chimney Maintenance
Multiple Venting
Maintenance of Your Woodburner
Smoke Alarms Save Lives
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimates more than 94 percent of North American homes have at least one smoke alarm. But consider this fact: There are more homes with smoke alarms that don't work, than homes without any alarms. These poorly maintained units create a false sense of security for residents.
WORKING Smoke Alarms Save Lives
By properly selecting, placing, testing, and maintaining your smoke alarm, you will greatly increase your chances of surviving a home fire.
Alarm Selection
- When you go to the store, you’ll find there are many different types of alarms on the market. There are standard battery-operated alarms, 10-year battery-operated alarms, and others that operate on the home’s electrical system.
- Building codes and local requirements often dictate the type of power that will be required to operate smoke alarms.
- There are also special alarms for people with hearing impairments. These have both an audible alarm and intense flashing lights.
- No matter what type of alarm you purchase, make sure it is listed or approved by an independent testing laboratory, such as Underwriters Laboratories (UL) or the Canadian Standards Association (CSA).
- Beyond the type of smoke detector, where it is placed is just as important as the type of smoke detector and how it is powered.
- The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) Life Safety Code 101 should be followed. Most codes require a minimum of one smoke alarm on every level, including basements, and within 15 feet of each sleeping area. If the door to the sleeping area is kept closed, it is also recommended that a smoke detector be placed inside the bedroom.
- In new construction, the code requires hard-wired smoke alarms to be interconnected. This means that if one smoke alarm is activated, all alarms will sound. New construction also requires a smoke alarm be installed in each bedroom.
- Installing a smoke alarm is simple. A screwdriver and a drill are all you need to install a battery-operated alarm. Other alarms can also be hardwired directly into your home’ electrical system. Hardwire installation should be done by a qualified electrician. Be sure to never connect an alarm to a circuit that can be turned off by a wall switch. Hard-wired systems should also be provided with a battery back up.
- Always follow the manufacturer’s installation instruction.
- Wall-mounted alarms should be installed so the top is 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm) from the ceiling.
- Ceiling-mounted units should be installed at least 6 inches (15 cm) from any wall.
- If a room has a vaulted ceiling, mount the alarm at or near the ceiling’s highest point.
- In stairways with no doors at the top or bottom, position alarms in the path smoke would follow up the stairwell.
- Mount alarms at the bottom of closed stairways, such as those leading to a basement. Dead air trapped near the door at the top of a stairway could prevent smoke from reaching an alarm located at the top.
- Don’t install an alarm too close to windows, doors, forced-air registers, or ceiling fans where drafts could interfere with the detector’s operation.
- If you have questions about the best places to install alarms, contact your local fire department for advice. Many departments will conduct home smoke alarm inspections for free or for a nominal fee.
Too Hot to Handle
