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St. Louis, Iowa and Lincoln's Illinois

Herbert Hoover National Historic Site in rural West Branch, Iowa wasn't my top pick for a vacation but we were on a road trip through Iowa to Lincoln's Springfield, Illinois and St. Louis, Missouri.

Hoover, the 31st President of the United States, is often remembered as the one who couldn't stop the Great Depression. Here at his tiny birthplace, a 14X20 ft cottage built by his Quaker father, we saw another side of Herbert Hoover.

Prior to his presidency, Hoover was hailed a hero for saving thousands of Europeans from starvation after WWI. expertly organizing food relief and distribution. At his presidential museum we followed his unlikely journey from blacksmith’s son to Commander-in-Chief at the White House.


Over in Illinois, statues of Lincoln & his family dot the streets of Springfield. We felt his presence everywhere as we walked in his footsteps.

In his home you can see the tiny wooden desk where he wrote many speeches. His law offices corner the public square where the Old Capitol Building holds court.


Here Lincoln the lawyer tried more than 300 cases. On June 16, 1858 while running for the Senate (he lost to Stephen Douglas) Lincoln delivered his famous 'House Divided' speech: "A house divided against itself cannot stand. I believe this government cannot endure, permanently, half slave and half free. I do not expect the Union to be dissolved — I do not expect the house to fall — but I do expect it will cease to be divided.”

After his 1865 assassination, 75,000 crowded past Lincoln's open casket on May 3rd & 4th beneath George Washington’s portrait in Representatives Hall. Outside on the steps a choir sang as his casket was carried past for the trip to Oak Ridge Cemetery.

At the modern Lincoln Presidential Museum Abe's story comes to life as you walk through his boyhood cabin and a White House replica, housing an exhibit of First Ladies dresses when we were there. 

Riveting films literally move you in your seat as you watch the numbers scroll through the Civil War years with the casualty count mounting on both sides.  Lincoln's briefcase brought the events to life even more than the 3-D phantoms.

Heading south  across the Missouri border, we spotted our largest monument(and most recognizable after the Statue of Liberty & Mount Rushmore), the St. Louis Arch.

Designed by Eero Saarinen in 1967, this smooth steel mass sweeps into the sky then swoops solidly down to earth. We journeyed upward, wedged in a tiny white pod, rising & tilting ferris wheel-style 630 feet to the Arch’s summit. 40-plus years after completion it still feels futuristic.

Beneath this “Gateway to the West” visit the Museum of Westward Expansion where you can retrace the 1804 journey of Lewis & Clark which began here on the banks of the Mississippi. Out the narrow windows to the east a paddlewheeled riverboat docks on its shore.

To the west is the Courthouse where, in 1857, Dred Scott, a black slave who moved to free state Illinois sued unsuccessfully for his freedom. This heightened tensions which led to the Civil War. Scott, later freed by his owners, died of tuberculosis in 1858 and is buried in St. Louis where people reportedly still leave Lincoln pennies on his grave.

On a lighter note, hidden within the St Louis Zoo is an indoor penguin pool. Here fluffy baby penguins waddle next to giant tuxedoed King penguins who dive and swim in the shallow waters. Puffins delight those who can’t swing a trip to the Scottish coast to see them in their native turf- the St. Louis Zoo is free.

If you have time, check out one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s best residential designs, the Dana Laurence house or dine at Blueberry Hill where the St Louis Walk of Fame honors natives Chuck Berry, Ulysses S. Grant and Tina Turner.  If you're lucky you'll see Chuck Berry who still performs here – sold out, of course - do his famous duck walk.

Looping back to Springfield we paid our respects at Lincoln’s tomb.  Gutzom Borglum’s (Mt Rushmore’s designer) sculpture reflects people’s desire to reach out & touch the man whose strength and sacrifice led our country through its darkest hours. His wife and children are here as well and the walls circling his tomb proclaim “Now he belongs to the ages.” Indeed.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Candid shots of my daughter absentmindedly wiggling a loose tooth in Abe's kitchen or my son befriending Lincoln's innocent boy Tad bring this trip back to life for me. 

Sometimes the shortest road trips stay with you the longest.


This post first appeared on The Road Traveler, please read the originial post: here

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St. Louis, Iowa and Lincoln's Illinois

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