Two waiters stood around waiting for customers, which was no one, apart from us. They were dressed head to foot in black, like Oswald Mosley's brigade - black shirts, black ties, black pants, shiny black loafers, pencil-thin black moustaches, slicked-back hair and eyes, all black. One of them brought coffee and poured from a tiny metal pot. We were allowed one pot between us. No more.

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