I had an appointment with a client. She wanted to get her Hair box braided. Fifteen minutes before time, I had my hair jam creams and all the tools that I would need ready. My client had a ‘twa’ (tinny winny afro; about 3 inches long.) She had recently cut her relaxed ends as she had transitioned for about six months, and so I thought my job would be easy as far as combing or untangling her hair was concerned. Boy, was I so wrong. “Blood of Jesus!” I screamed in my head, as I placed my hand on her hair in order to start combing. Typical Nigerian exclamation right? It’s okay to laugh at it. Anyways, my client had no clue what hair regimen to embark on since she didn’t know what her hair type was. So, for days she had not been properly combing her hair, and of course, she left at the feet of the hairdresser with supernatural powers to do the job. I’m sure we have had times when we were lazy and didn’t feel like combing our hair before going to the hairdresser. Well, I possess no supernatural powers, and neither I nor my client will be forgetting that day in a hurry. Why? In as much as I tried my best, her very much tangled hair would not budge to being untangled without a fight. Needless to say, lessons were learned. So I figured it would be nice to enlighten my natural, curly and kinky haired sisters who are in the journey of transitioning or who have already transitioned but still haven’t figured out what their hair type is and how best to take care of it.

There are 3 hair type (A, B and C) of type 3 (curly) hair, and two subtypes of type 4 (kinky) hair but I will pay more attention to type 3C, and all type 4. This is because most African women have these hair types.

Type 3c

Generally, type 3 hair is curly and has an “S” shaped pattern. 3C is the curly kinky hair type and it is very tightly curled in corkscrews, although usually fine-textured.

Tips:

Because type 3C hair is as fragile as kinky hair, it does need moisture and a lot of care.

Styling gels, butter and oils will come in handy.

When curls are dry, do not use brush or comb on it.

Do not be miserly with conditioner when untangling hair, and a big-toothed comb as well as an untangling brush are best to use.

A lot of people don’t know this, but what you wrap/cover your hair in while you sleep is a major contributing factor to how much it tangles by the time you wake up. The popular hairnets, remember? Those that are literally nets, yeah. Those are not good for type 3C hair (and just about all kinky hair types.) A satin cap is best to use. If you don’t find one in your nearest beauty supply store, try buying a satin scarf or pillowcase (if you rather sleep without a cap)

A popular celebrity who sports the Type 3c is Kelis

Type 4 (Kinky)

Type 4a

This hair type is soft, moist, tightly coiled and has a more defined curly pattern. The hair can be wiry or fine-textured. It is usually fragile with high density. Hair Type 4a has fewer cuticle layers than other hair types, which means it has less natural protection from damage.

Tips:

Co-wash with a moisturizing sulfate-free cleanser

Clarify your scalp with shampoos containing tea tree or jojoba oil

Use thicker natural emollients like mango and shea butter to maximize your wash-and-go, twist-out, or Bantu knot-out style after washing

A popular celebrity who rocks the Type 4a is Teyonnah Paris.

Type 4b

Also tightly coiled and very fragile but, has a less defined curl pattern (Z-shaped.)
These kinky hair types are especially fragile. This means that you are more than likely gonna experience breakages, even when rarely using heat on it. This hair type will shrink up to 75% of the actual hair length. Good products are very important, but how you care for your hair type 4 (especially 4b) is more important.

Tips:

After you have deep conditioned your hair, wear it in a protective style. This helps lock the moisture in. I can’t emphasize moisture enough! Your natural hair needs moisture, not dryness. You would notice that the more you wear your hair in protective styles with little or no manipulation, results in very little breakage, less split ends, and growth.

Pre-poo with coconut oil or castor oil to help retain natural oils in your scalp.

Create a heat-free style on stretched hair with perm rods, Curlformers, or flexi rods for maximum definition and less frizz

Use a t-shirt or microfiber towel to dry hair after washing; terry cloth will strip its natural moisture and cause tension on the strands

Some celebrities who sport the type 4b look are T.Y Bello and Solange Knowles

Type 4c

Type 4c hair is composed of strands that will almost never clump without the use of styling techniques. Type 4c hair can range from fine, thin, soft to coarse with densely packed strands. Some say Type 4c coils look identical to 4b except that the curls are tightly kinked with less definition.

Tips:

Use a creamy humectant as a leave-in to maximise protection from the elements.

A curl defining custard or gelee can stretch the coil safely for twist-outs and braid-outs.

Cover your hair at night with a silk or satin cap to protect your hair and prevent breakage.

Use an untangling co-wash with slippery elm or marshmallow root.

Lupita Nyong’o, Nse Ikpe Etim and Viola Davies are some celebrities who fabulously sport the look

In general, it is best to finger-comb rather than using a comb or brush for untangling. From the name, I mean using your fingers in place of a comb. It may seem harder and time-consuming at first, but you will find that it is rewarding. Finger-combing helps you figure out where tangles are, is better and gentle. Also, be patient with your hair, especially while washing it. You will notice that as your hair grows and gets fuller, it gets harder to wash and condition. Partition it into three to four parts when you get to that level. If you are still transitioning, I don’t think you have much of a choice if your scalp means anything to you. It ensures that products get to every strand as well. Again wear protective styles. This is very important as your hair rests when you are not touching it all the time. It grows in that process too.

Sisters, we are in an era where natural hair is being appreciated. If you are moved to join that trend, go ahead girl! The awesome thing about natural hair is that it can be worn in different amazing styles even though it requires a lot of commitment. First and foremost, figure out what your hair type is. It helps with a care regimen. It’s also gonna guide you in achieving the best results in every other thing that you do to your hair. There is so much confidence that comes with wearing your good looking, full, and fluffy natural hair. These can only be achieved if we take proper care of it. So, I leave you with these last words ladies (or gentlemen with or without fro who are reading.) Beauty hurts. This doesn’t necessarily mean that you have got yourself into a hot mess by going natural. It means that you are gonna have to pay more attention to your hair, do a little extra stuff that you didn’t have to do when you had it permed, and be more committed to any regimen you decide on, but in the end, we come out looking like queens. Proud queens.

Some parts of this post are culled from the following sources;

Black Girl Long HairNaturally CurlyBlacknaps

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