I recently bought Rochas Femme Parfum de Toilette & parfum, very vintage, possibly 60s.
Some of y'all have asked me to post come thoughts once I tried it, and I'd love to...but I am having a harder-than-usual time finding words for it, after several wears including one full wear today. I keep wearing it one more time hoping I can figure it out, but something about this one is hard for me to put into words.
I guess that's one of the things I love about chypres - the abstraction of them. But sheesh, it makes them hard to talk about. The only way I know to talk about them is in the context of other chypres.
So, the Femme PdT - I am still trying to figure it out. It DOES actually remind me of Diorella. It's not as overripe (and simultaneously bright-smelling) as Diorella, but they do smell like sisters to me. And I think I do smell raisins, maybe (not really plums, though). It also reminds me of Mitsouko -- not as spicy, nor as resinous, but the likeness is there. Anyway, I'm going to keep trying to figure it out, but maybe for now it's enough to know that I like it, even if I'm still figuring it out.
The extrait, on the other hand - Holy Mother of God, this stuff is some Bandit-level-badassery and I LOVE it. The opening is some dark, dark, leather and spice magic, so beautiful it nearly brought tears to my eyes the first (and second) times I wore it. After the initial massive, shocking (utterly glorious) tarry blast, she mellows out some as the jam and spice notes blossom and play with the rosemary. (To me, the top is ALL about the leather, and then it mellows from there, in kind of reverse-pyramid order.) It's just gorgeous stuff, mysterious, voluptuous, and melancholy in its WWII context, a vintage lover's dream. For nights out, I like a leather and will usually go with Bandit (if I don't want to be messed with) or Cuir de Russie (if I do). Femme extrait will be joining the ranks.