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Novel Summer Coconut/Passionfruit/Ambergris Perfume Formula

Hey all,

I smelt a Tom Ford perfume a while ago that was clearly built around benzyl salicylate and it inspired me to play with some summery ideas built on an overdose of the same with gourmand notes (which I usually hate in perfume). It ended up being surprisingly good and quite novel. I figured someone here may want to have a play around with the formula so I am posting the formula here. The main notes of the perfume are passionfruit, coconut, and ambergris, with a fresh green nuance and delicate florals. And of course at 25% of the total the Benzyl Salicylate is the star of it all.

I used quite high doses of very expensive musks but it's well worth it because an otherwise delicate perfume has amazing longevity as a result.

11 Bergamot Calabria
4 Red Mandarin
3 Dihydromyrcenol
5 Cis 3 Hexyl Acetate 10%
2 Cis 3 Hexenol 100%
20 Coranol
30 Linalool
50 Linalyl Acetate
20 Passionfruit Base (Firmenich)
4 Osmanthus absolute 10%
5 Cardamom CO2 10%
20 Gamma Nonalactone (LOADS!)
3 Pink Pepper EO
250 Benzyl Salicylate
25 Ylang Ylang Superior Extra
15 Gardenia Storm (Auram International - any gardenia will do though)
20 Benzoin 50%
5 Vanillin
20 Coumarin
22 Helional
160 Hedione
100 Helvetolide
80 Ambrox DL
10 Muscone Laevo (Firmenich)
6 Ambrettolide
7 Exaltolide
10 Hindinol
4 Javanol
100 Iso E Super

A rough fragrance pyramid for this could be something like:

Top Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Passionfruit, Cut Grass, Cardamom, Pink Pepper

Heart Notes: Ylang Ylang, Gardenia, Osmanthus, Jasmin, Lily of the Valley

Base Notes: Musk, Coconut, Pear, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Ambergris, Benzoin, Vanilla, White Woods

The pear note is a nuance of helvetolide.

And if you want to really show off with the most ridiculous modern pyramid as we sometimes see today, you could add "sunshine" from the benzyl salicylate, and "Fresh air" as a nuance of the helional (which I am listing as lily of the valley first and foremost).

Mix it up if you can - it really is quite a nice little perfume. It would also be a great starter for a high-end laundry detergent though you'd definitely want to replace some of the ingredients with cheaper and more appropriate chemicals for that application and I definitely wouldn't be wasting osmanthus absolute in a detergent!

If I was going to spend time trying to improve on it the first thing I would do is replace with the gamma nonalactone with a coconut base to get a fuller coconut note and I'd possibly add a touch of rose in some way - most likely just with a bit of rhodinol and perhaps one of the damascones.

I'd probably also add trace chemicals to sharpen and push the top notes out more.

This post first appeared on Grant Osborne, please read the originial post: here

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Novel Summer Coconut/Passionfruit/Ambergris Perfume Formula


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