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Rose Deluxe: Best Rose Base Ever (Rose de Mai for the Masses)

Hey all, when I first started out here I started a long thread on Rose bases - getting HUGE help from the likes of David Ruskin and others. After nearly two years of working at it I have finished my rose base. This is the best rose base formula you will find on the internet (even if I do say so myself!) :)

This is very much a wardia-type base (it is, in fact, based in part on a GCMS analysis of rose wardia). However, because I like to work with restricted chemicals I have been a little more relaxed around the formula than Firmenich needs to be due to IFRA. The restricted ingredients in this base can be easily substituted if you don't want to use them but they are in very small doses so I can't really see why there would be a problem anyway.

This base is expensive but well worth it I think. It can be used at mega-doses or micro-doses. Wardia was created before a number of truly astonishing rose chemicals were discovered. I have incorporated those chemicals into this base while remaining true to vintage perfumery by including a large dose of natural Rose de Mai absolute. You can omit the Rose de Mai if cost prevents you from using it.

I would be more than happy to hear any comments or criticisms of this base.

Step 1: Rose Deluxe Micro-base

In order to add ingredients at really small doses, I mix up a micro-base which lets me scale up to work with larger quantities. I then include a small amount of that microbase in to the finished rose base. This really adds much of the magic so you don't want to omit this. There are some unusual ingredients but they are all available from Vigon or PerfumerSupplyHouse.

0.5 Para Tolyl Aldehyde
1.0 Syringa Aldehyde
1.5 Citral
1.5 Guaiac Wood (I use Guaiac heart from Robertet which is less smokey)
0.4 Heliotropin
0.5 Alpha Terpineol (I use Lindenol)
0.4 Methyl Heptine Carbonate (subst: undecavertol)
0.3 Citronella Oil
0.5 Cinnamic Alcohol (Symrise is best)
0.2 Isoeugenol (use methyl diantilis or other iso-eugenol replacer if IFRA/EU is bullying you)
0.3 Citronellyl Butyrate
0.1 Decalactone Delta
0.1 Phenyl Acetaldehyde
0.1 Benzaldehyde (you could use bitter almond oil but I have natural benzaldehyde which is lovely)
2 Rose Oxide Laevo 10% (I keep this in a 10% dilution - otherwise you can just use 0.2)
1.4 Damascenone 10%
0.1 Damascone Beta 10%
0.2 Ionone Beta 10%
0.1 Muscone Laevo
0.5 Geranyl Butyrate
0.3 Phenyl ethyl tiglate

That comes to a total of 12. NOTE: this does not smell particularly nice on its own but don't be afraid - it all comes together in the end.

Now the main base. You will use the above in here:

Rose Deluxe Base

400 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
120 Citronellol Laevo
85 Geraniol ex Palma Rosa
33 Cyclosia (hydroxycitronellal)
25 Rose de Mai absolute
22 Methyl Phenyl Acetate
20 Linalool ex Bois de Rose
20 Clovebud Zanzibar
15 Ylang Ylang superior extra (Comoros)
12 Geranium Bourbon
10 Geranyl Acetate
9 Geranyl Propionate
12 Rose Deluxe Microbase
5 Aldehyde c-11 Undecylenic (100%)
5 Roman Chamomile
1 Geranyl Formate
10 Civet Tincture 10%
196 Triethyl Citrate (softens and sweetens - use DEP, DGP, or IPM if you don't want to use TEC)

Done!


This post first appeared on Grant Osborne, please read the originial post: here

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Rose Deluxe: Best Rose Base Ever (Rose de Mai for the Masses)

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