Sometimes you need to take the good with the bad. For those who travel to the Taj Mahal in India, you are forced to deal with the city of Agra. You want to visit the Pyramids? Good luck with Cairo. One of the major draws of Bolivia is Lake Titicaca (i immaturely giggle as i write it). Sadly, to see the lake, you're all but forced to use Copacabana as a base.
It has long been a popular route for travellers to cross, overland, from Peru to Bolivia. While there are a couple transit options, by far the most popular choice is through the village of Copacabana. The crossing itself is pretty uneventful. The 2 or 3 bus companies that do the crossing have it down to a science. Just move along like sheep and in short time you have a couple extra passport stamps and you're ready for Bolivia.
The problem is, the first stop is the town of Copacabana. I often speak of terms like "mass tourism" or "sustainable tourism". These are conflicting trends which have a dramatic impact on local culture, environment and economy. Copacabana is a prime example of unsustainable tourism. Virtually every single building in town is for tourism purposes. Whether a budget hostel, hole-in-the-wall cafe, travel agent or exchange office this place is built for the sole purpose of making sure backpackers don't have to think or integrate in any way, shape or form. There is nothing cultural or beautiful about the town. It is artificial and ugly.
As is the case with other such places in the world, horrible little towns like Copacabana are
There is, however, good news. Lake Titicaca is more than just a lake, there's actually stuff to
Arguably the biggest draw on the island is the series of Incan and very pre-Incan ruins scattered
So to sum up, I hated Copacabana with every fibre of my being. Lake Titicaca produced more yawns than gasps. And Isla del Sol is a jewel in the rough getting roughed over. With all that said, it is an easy trip and some of the views along the trail on the island are kind of pretty. Plus a friend of mine swears by the spiritualness of the place. So i guess there's that.
It has long been a popular route for travellers to cross, overland, from Peru to Bolivia. While there are a couple transit options, by far the most popular choice is through the village of Copacabana. The crossing itself is pretty uneventful. The 2 or 3 bus companies that do the crossing have it down to a science. Just move along like sheep and in short time you have a couple extra passport stamps and you're ready for Bolivia.
The problem is, the first stop is the town of Copacabana. I often speak of terms like "mass tourism" or "sustainable tourism". These are conflicting trends which have a dramatic impact on local culture, environment and economy. Copacabana is a prime example of unsustainable tourism. Virtually every single building in town is for tourism purposes. Whether a budget hostel, hole-in-the-wall cafe, travel agent or exchange office this place is built for the sole purpose of making sure backpackers don't have to think or integrate in any way, shape or form. There is nothing cultural or beautiful about the town. It is artificial and ugly.
As is the case with other such places in the world, horrible little towns like Copacabana are
generally a means to an end. Nobody in the right minds would choose to visit Aguas Calientes in Peru. But it just so happens to be the gateway to Machu Picchu, so there's little other choice. The thing is, Copacabana is the launching pad to Lake Titicaca. While this might not be the popular opinion, Lake Titicaca is more product of excellent marketing branding than an actual attraction. It is by no means the most beautiful lake in the world.
It wouldn't even make a Letterman Top 10 list. But everyone's about "the Highest Navigable Lake" in the world as if that's a thing. Just because you make up some ridiculous title like 'it's a church built by a left-handed, blond architect on a Tuesday of a leap year' does not make the church any more impressive. It's not that the lake is ugly. But Lake Titicaca, as a body of water, is overwhelmingly underwhelming. Just ask the armanda of travellers who almost instantly fall asleep as soon as they step on a tour boat.
There is, however, good news. Lake Titicaca is more than just a lake, there's actually stuff to
see and do on the lake. Without question the biggest draw is the Isla del Sol (Sun Island). Jutting out of the lake, a few hour boat ride from Copacabana, Isla del Sol is a breath of fresh air at 4,000 metres above sea level. There are no cars on the Island. People are still largely fishermen and farmers. The place is a stark contrast to the depressingness of Copacabana (although the island does not seem immune to rapid growth). Even better, the island is more than just a place to get away, it a destination in and of itself.
Arguably the biggest draw on the island is the series of Incan and very pre-Incan ruins scattered
around the rugged terrain. Extremely well maintained stone paths criss-cross their way from one end to another, passing by most points of interest. The hike is, quite literally, breath-taking. Do keep in mind though, if hoping to do the north-south trek in a day, you have to maintain a pretty steady pace to catch the last boat. While the overall trip is a nice one, one thing did irk me (and downright pissed off others). You are asked to pay for tickets at several points along the path. I have no problem financially contributing to the upkeep of the trail, but some sort of all island ticket can't be that far a stretch, can it?
So to sum up, I hated Copacabana with every fibre of my being. Lake Titicaca produced more yawns than gasps. And Isla del Sol is a jewel in the rough getting roughed over. With all that said, it is an easy trip and some of the views along the trail on the island are kind of pretty. Plus a friend of mine swears by the spiritualness of the place. So i guess there's that.
