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Ride around Kumbakonam and Senji

Tags: temple moved
Rider: Ram

Date: Feb 1st to Feb 4th

Bike: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350cc

Total Distance: 770 Kms

Its been 85 years since Gangai Konda Cholapuram Temple is Consecrated. 'Gangaikonda Cholapuram membattu Kuzhu' has made an effort to do it again to that majestic temple. How can a Chola lover like me could even think of missing this one? I took two days off Feb 2nd and 3rd prior and started my ride by late evening of Feb 1st.

Earlier my Dad left to Chidambaram and said he would join me on 1st night. Since this is one of the proud moment for all Chola lovers, we couldn't find a place to stay there as all the room are mostly pre-booked. Fortunately, that is the place where my father is in work during his younger age and again he went on in search of his old friend. These were happening during my ride from Chennai. Again, he went on to the places he remember on search of his friend after 25 years and without any out-attempts he got his friend. They both shared the joy and surprise. My Dad mentioned about our travel to GKC and his friend readily agreed us to stay there. I made it to GKC post mid-night around 1 AM. The road till Vikravandi is good and later one has to manage on two lane road which would be a difficult ride on Nights.


Morning we woke up earlier and I took ride to GKC temple which is 3 kms away from Dad's friend house. This particular one is a group visit, as my new group members 'Cholar Varalatru Aivu Mandram' would be available there. I went on and joined with the group and by that time only one person is known to me personally. Who is Vetrivel - Author of 'Vaanvalli' Novel, that deals with Karikala Cholan History. We had good time seeing the Consecration and later an elder in our group named 'Ulimagizh Rajkamal' has explained us about the Sculptures present in the temple.

Overjoyed by it! I can't spend the whole day as I have to move on to more temples that day. By noon, myself and Dad started by bike and rode to Saluppai.

Saluppai:


I have already made an visit to this temple earlier, but I have missed the 'Kaali' temple over here. This 'Kaali' is said to be taken from West Bengal by Emperor Rajendra Chola I as a symbol for his Victory. This is a seperate shrine available in the Alagar Temple of Saluppai. One who travels has to ask for Saluppai Alagar koil to reach this. A big Elephant statue would welcome you to this temple and you couldn't ask more from it.

After done with Saluppai, we went back to Dad's friend home and bid Good bye and moved on.

Sengamedu:


Just instead of taking right(to GKC) in the Sethethope - Kumbakonam road take left and move on to reach Sengamedu. What is here? When Rajendra Chola I made an victory he brought few Kaali statues from Orissa and Bengal. He places the Kaali statues as a protection on all four direction of GKC and one such direction is this Sengamedu. The earlier one what we saw in Saluppai is the little one and the statue here is so Majestic, that would make us fear a moment thinking some angry woman is standing in front of us. There are multiple other statues as well, which can equalize the height of us.

Hardheartedly we moved from that Place.

Thirupuvanam:


We then moved further and finished our lunch at Anakarai. Then moved on to Thirupuvanam. Sarabeswarar temple. This is one of the Old temple in my list that follows the architecture style of the Great Chola temples - Tanjore/GKC and Darasuram. Beautiful sculptures are present all over the temple and can be said as the architecture beauty. The gigantic tower welcomes us with Pride showing the works of Majestic kings on this temple. Floored by its beauty we spent few time there and moved further. Meanwhile, Dad asked me stop by in 'Kaala Bairava' temple - which looks old Village temple.

Thirunageswaram:

We then moved further to visit Thirunageswaram. Two majestic temple present over here would never let you move anywhere. Ragu temple and Uppiliappan temple. The Ragu temple is one of the Navagraha temple around Kumbakonam area. This temple is believed to be Built by Aditya Chola I and seeing through the high area, beautifully maintained temple pond will give you most memorable visit during your time there. We then moved further onto the Uppiliappan temple, which is closely located to the earlier one. As the earlier one is Shiva temple, this one falls to be Perumal Temple. This is also believed to be built by Cholas. One could see the temple pond and sculptures beautifully located. And one could also see Temple Elephant here which children would cherish on seeing it.

Later completing Thirunageswaram, I offered to stay there. But Dad insisted on moving to Swami malai, as the stay will also be there. We then moved to Swami malai - Beautiful temple for Lord Murugan. But unfortunately, we couldn't find a stay in Temple lodge as all are full. We then queried the nearby one and none are below Rs.750. We then moved to Darasuram, finding a stay but the same story continues. I offered to move again to Thirunageswaram, though it is 15 kms distance from where we stand. Dad agreed and we moved to Thirunageswaram again. Rs.300 for 24 hrs. Good Room... Perfect for the cost. No Complaints. We had a nice sleep and started early in the morning.


We moved to Darasuram - The architectural beauty of Tamilnadu. We spent almost a hour looking all its beauty of sculptures. Then we moved further into the Pazhayarai area. Pazhayarai? The Medival cholas capital was Pazhayarai that comprises of Pazhayarai, Pateeswaram even Darasuram. Now all the areas are splatted and converted to separate villages.

Pazhayarai:


On our ride inside Pazhayarai, we could see names of Villages ending as 'Padai' letting us know these are villages of Cholas Army resided. We could see a village named 'Cholan Maligai', where the Palace of Cholas should have been at that time. Now one could see nothing there as all the palaces has been destroyed on the later invasions. We then moved further to Keela Pazhayarai. Here an ancient Siva temple and Vishnu temple can be seen. The vishnu temple here is called Nandipura Vinnagaram and the siva temple is Somanathasamy Temple.

A half broken tower welcomes us in Somanathasamy Temple. And the inner tower is beautifully colored. One could see the similar architecture of Darasuram here, but to mention this one is the earliest compared to Darasuram. The temple is calm as you expect and other than we two, there are no one available out there. Nandipura vinnagaram is similar to this and I could say it is a must visit for the history or Temple lovers.



Then we moved further looking for Raja Raja Colan Pallipadai. Within a thin pathway we rode the bike and by our left we saw a single Shiva Lingam with Shed. This is believed to be Pallipadai of Rajarajan but this isn't proved. There are few misinterpretations of the inscription happened that made people to believe that is Raja Rajan Pallipadai. There is a temple available just two streets away from this place and some claim that to be Raja Rajan Pallipadai. Not sure of which, we have to wait for some concrete evidence to know where that Mighty Emperor rests.

Pateeswaram:


We then moved to Patteeswaram. This is one big temple that holds Durga temple and Shiva temple within it. Durga statue here is so big and there are inscription dated to Raja Raja chola saying the funds by him to the temple. This one is so famous and the siva idol here is Dhenupureswarar temple, denoting Shiva worshipped by Cow. This majestic temple is so famous and you would fall for its beauty without any word. We then moved outside looking for 'Panchavan Madevi Pallipadai'. Panchavan Madevi is Step-mother of Rajendra chola - Wife of Raja Raja Chola. This temple is built by Rajendra Chola I as a symbol of love for his step mother. One could think of the love he had on his step-mother and how she would have been at that time to make him built a temple for her as a symbol of love. Unfortunately the temple was closed by the time we reached there. One has to ask for 'Ramanathasamy temple' to reach here as querying 'Panchavan Madevi Pallipadai' won't help you in this time.

Completing things for the day. We moved to my hometown. Virudhachalam. We stayed night there in my Aunty's Home. The next day, I left my father at home and made a solo ride.

Sendhamangalam:


On the way to Chennai, I planned to cover few areas. The first in my list is Sendhamanagalam. Sendhamangalam is present of Viluppuram - Ulundurpet road. It is the ancient capital of Kaadava King Koperunchingan. This Kadava is the later descendants of Pallava(One lineage maybe) and Koperunchingan is famous for his act of arresting the mighty chola emperor Raja Rajan III. When we enter Sendhamangalam, at first we will be welcomed by mighty fort walls. Not expecting such big walls, I moved further and stopped my bike before the temple. I queried a nearby boy about the musical horse present there and he took me to other way to see the musical horse. Surrounded by bushes and human waste, the horses are locked inside an iron gate. There is a big pond before that, giving an idea this would be place the Idols would be taken and washed during festival time. Looking the place is very untidy and with broken heart I moved further to temple. The temple is half way to renovation, I guess. ASI is looking after this and we could expect soon a Consecration for this. This temple is majestic and looks like a fort and we could see inscriptions all over the temple.

I had a big chat with the temple priest about the history of the temple. He had informed about the Kaali temple, in which Koperuchengan will pray before any War attempts he made. Hearing all the history, I then moved away.

Panamalai:




Before Villupuram, I took a left and made a way to reach Panamalai. This is one of the old temple named Talagirisvara built by Pallava Emperor Rajasimha located in a small hill-lock. This resembles the archietecture of famous Kailasanathar temple in Kanchipuram. Every pillar and sculpture denotes the name of Pallava. One could get beautiful view of nearby villages at the top and renovation work is going on by the time I visited. There are few old paintings as well available in the temple.

Senji:




I then moved from Panamalai to Senji. The drive is quite good and I had to drive along a Reserved Forest area to reach Senji which is quite adventurous added with Monkey Chase :D. I reached Senji and I had to say, this thing is beyond my expectation. As far as I read, I couldn't figure out who exactly built or owned this Fort - but whoever may be he lived a life like none before. Naturally available three hills are covered up and made as Fort and one can't expect anything else other than the majestic views. Ponds, Lakes, Temples, Mosque, Hill Forts, Library, Weapon Storage everything and everything is available. The trekking to top of hill is quite challenging and I avoided that due to my long travel of 3 days.

If you are around. Make a visit to Senji and I assure you will get a never before experience there. Best in this ride next to GKC..!

With all the excitement around. I ended my visit there and made a ride back to Chennai. That's making an end to my Exciting ride.

-Ram


This post first appeared on TRAVEL WITH RAM, please read the originial post: here

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Ride around Kumbakonam and Senji

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