Fresh fish in the forest

The forest and rivers surrounding the Trout Tree Restaurant offer an otherworldly ambience. The day we went, in the middle of the long rains, the restaurant and its bounds were cloaked in mist. The restaurant appearing spectre like from the trees, its ethereal atmosphere only hinting at the experience to come.

Trout Tree Wonderland

The Trout Tree Restaurant is built around an enormous Sacred Fig. sitting on the banks of a river. The Burguret River, whose source is Mount Kenya, cascades through the grounds of the restaurant feeding pools filled with trout. The Sacred Fig is a gargantuan matriarch, which envelops the restaurant, its branches supporting the wooden platforms that form the floor, its canopy sheltering us from the mists and rain. In the summer the shady coolness of the grand behemoth is one of the best escapes in Nanyuki.

Upon entering Nanyuki, the piratical fishbone sign is the first thing that welcomes you. A graveled path descends off the main road into an indigenous forest in which many Colubus monkeys have made home. Tripping the light fantastic into the shelter of the fig tree is a multi sensory experience. Rainbows flicker in the twilight of the forest as you spot trout leaping from the pools. A rich smell of fish cooking in cream and the damp mustiness of thick woodland. Bird’s twitter along to the roaring or the rain bloated river.

As we enter the rain stops temporarily and paints the tree in rare technicolor. The mists giving way to the multiple pools of different sizes that form the farm. Our dinner will be fished straight from one of the larger pools. Trout tree itself is held within the branches of the great tree. There are two stories at different heights for seating and a third adventurously high platform for the brave… and the monkeys. We chose to sit on a bench overlooking the property. We see goat, sheep, pigs and chickens dance between the trout pools.

Lunch at the Trout Tree

The restaurant was filled even on this gloomiest of days. It is not surprise that the menu mostly fish based. The lengthy tome offers the local trout as well as some Tilapia. Both come curried, stewed or as my preference: grilled with a little lemon. My husband has pate to start whilst I have smoked trout, both are decent but not spectacular. The mains are the champion, the fish unadorned and accompanied with simple vegetables and potato. I leave happy, as do the kids who eschew fish for the yummiest carbonara. The food is ok, but is surpassed by the majesty of the surroundings. We would have stayed longer, for there is pudding and more good wine but the kids are keen to fish. So we grab our rods.

Fishing in the forest

The caretaker takes us through the forest echoing with the calls of the most Colobus monkeys I’ve ever seen. Our guide helps the children through slippery paths through dripped forest until we reach the river. He helps us dig for worms and thread them wriggling on to hooks. Sated from lunch, the grown ups settle down on rocks at the edge of the swirling water whilst the kids master the mechanics of fishing with the caretakers bamboo rods and string. The mission is unsuccessful and it is suggested we move further upstream. Here though the water is still brown and fierce with rains cascading down from Mount Kenya. ‘This is bad day for trout’ says our guide. ‘The fish don’t like the brown water, we wont be lucky today’. It matters little. I’ve small taste to gut fish and the kids are stuffed from their pasta. The fun was in the rods and jungle like setting. The kids spent more time looking for worms and trying to catch monkeys than they do looking at water. We vow to come back and catch something another day.

A place for all seasons

The Trout Tree Restaurant is a must visit on any trip to Laikipia. The restaurant must be resplendent in the sun and the heat. A heavenly shaded place for cool wines and good food. There was a playground hidden around the trunk of the tree but the ceaseless dripping of the water and the mud filled pathways forbade us a visit. On a sunny day I can think of no better place to spend your time than in the loving embrace of that tree. Wine for mum, animals and paths to explore for kids, fishing for everyone. It was a treat.

Food, fish, fun and a place to sleep

It would be remiss of me not to tell you that the Trout Tree menu offers more than just the local trout. You will find a menu replete with not only fish but also Laikipia beef, some of the best in Kenya if not the continent. In addition Trout Tree have a pizza oven and on weekends offer a bespoke kids menu.

If you can’t get enough of the place then you can stay. Creaky Cottage imbues the spirit of the place. Animmaculate storied wooden hut surrounded on 3 sides by the river. Sleep comforted by the rustling of leaves and the leap of trout then order all your food directly from the restaurant. The Trout Tree estate is a sleepy kind of place, a peaceful kind of place. It’s a perfect weekend retreat if you are done with safari and sea. Not forgetting though that it’s a great place to base yourself for the wildlife extravaganza that Nanyuki and Laikipia have to offer.

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