I once visited a place which has taken firm roots in my heart. Its uniqueness, freshness, and diversity have made a lasting impression upon my mind. The white sand when receives a tiny bit of rainfall, gives rise to lush green carpets spread over several thousand miles. Then the terrain seems so moving, so wavy as if a part of giant but smoothly elevated ocean wave. Then the overall environment, camels walking besides roads, small indigenous huts placed in middle of nowhere, deeply dug wells in the most barren land, simplest ever people taking care of the guests, and the light fragrance of the tropical Desert, all suggest that there is nothing like Tharparkar in this entire world.

The word ‘Tharparkar’ comes from Thar or Thul which means thorn or sand ridges and ‘Parkar’ means to cross the land. Once these two were separate terms but later merged into one. In old times, many pilgrims and people carrying trade caravans used to cross this region. To begin with, they’d travel through the sand, then the Karoonjhar mountain range, and finally the long and marshy Kutch region or probably ocean in the Ancient times. Hence, the word Tharparkar came into being which means to cross over the land of difficult terrain comprising thorns and sand ridges.

This place is located at the southern most part of Sindh province, Pakistan. It borders India’s Rajasthan and Gujarat states. The land of 20,000 sq km has a population of about 1.6 million. It is a district which comprises towns such as Mithi, Islamkot, Chachro, Diplo, and Nagarparkar. At one time, one of the wealthiest Hindu families lived in Pakistani side of the desert, but the 1965 and 1971 Indo-Pak wars changed whole demographics. Most of the upper class Hindus migrated to India while some Muslim families came over to Pakistan. As the name suggests, Thar Par Kar (cross the thar) these tragedies caused revival of ancient traditions of this region although not willingly.

In the year 1947, about 20% Muslims and 80% Hindus lived here. Later these numbers dramatically changed. By the year 1998 about 59% Muslims and 41% Hindus were living in this region. Still, the number ‘forty one’ percent is far higher than anywhere else in any Muslim majority country. In that sense, this land is distinct. 

The taste of travelling towards Tharparkar is absolutely different than ordinary flavors. It is geographically, culturally, and religiously a complex region. It is a mixture of different colors where sunlight brightens the soil and where diversity surrounds from all corners. In these distinct colors, it is a different feeling, altogether, to experience Pakistan’s another side.

Although this land is a part of the Great Indian Desert which mostly lies in India’s Rajasthan state, there is some difference between golden brownish mainstream desert and this subtropical desert located mostly in Pakistan’s Southern Sindh province. Here, the sand has a different texture. It has a silver and white color. Tharparpar, a portion of the great Thar Desert, is the only fertile desert in the world.

It has a small not more than 20 km long Karoonjhar Mountainous strip located in between India’s Gujarat and Pakistan’s Nangarparkar areas. When rains come, these hills become highways for tons of rainwater which flows in the form of mini rivers. The canals coming out of it flow throughout the region, making the land lush green. Even a tiny drop of rain water makes the soil extremely fertile. Monsoon rains transform the arid and desolate Thar into a green and lush valley having plenty of plants and trees like Cacti, Acacia, and Neem trees.

Rains hold and sustain ground water which locals take from deep wells in otherwise a dry area. The water slowly soaks into the ground and land becomes fertile. It all gets easier for grazing of over 4.5 million livestock.

The livestock is also one of the back bones of Tharparkar’s economy. The large grazing grounds have been made all over, probably designed by British in colonial era. The cows usually know how to walk through places, all alone and without a man to guide them. They know how to return back to the village. Locals have plenty of camels, cows, goats, sheep, and mules. They are important for the livelihood of the people.

Muslims take care of the animals in this land of thorns and sand ridges. They are poor and care about what is their source of income. Their lives depend on these animals. But Hindus care even more. It is not just a part of their culture but an essential ingredient of their Dharma (faith). They respect animals to a level of worship. I saw it personally in the streets of Mithi city, current district headquarter. The Hindu women wait for the street cows and buffaloes to walk past their streets. Then they open doors and present food to the wandering animals as a sign of respect and gratitude.

Animal health is important for livestock economy as well as taking care of their rights. It is our responsibility to care about them as we are the dominant specie of the planet. In this region there are about 1.6 million people whereas livestock comprises over 4.6 million. Cows and Camels are plenty here. They comprise more than population of human beings living in the area. 

Still only 12 vets are available in the district which heavily relies upon livestock. About 3 lakh animals died in last few years after which government started vaccination program across 68 villages. Later, it nearly ran out of vaccination due to lack of supply. The current level of animal health program and tactics remain unsatisfactory.

Health issues are there among people as well. According to some reports, more than 2000 villages remain unregistered in the 80% of Tharparkar’s remote terrain which mostly remains inaccessible. Having high poverty rate, there is lack of access to affordable health facilities in the subtropical desert.

Children face worse and alarming levels of health complications as infants. About 2000 children under age 5 have died since 2011. Dr. Aurangzeb, a medical doctor in Nagarparkar area says, “80% children born in the region are underweight… complications from birth to the age of 5 are life threatening.” Many think the main cause is poverty. It is due to very few economic opportunities apart from relying on yearly rains for agriculture and another being the trade of livestock.

People care but there is not much they could do. “I don’t want cash! I want good treatment for my wife… Is this because we are a minority in this Muslim country?” says Mr. Prem Kumar, a local resident of Nagarparkar. As he is speaking, his eyes are filled with tears. Someone should feel his pain. And relevant authorities who matter should look into such issues of basic human necessities. After all, people like Prem Kumar are living for their family, putting their loved ones before their own survival.

The literacy rate is low here. It’s only about 20%. Out of 5 lakh children, only 1 lakh and 65 thousand are registered in the schools. But this region is known for its surprises and jaw dropping experiences. Out of nothingness, no resources, and no opportunities, the students who get familiarized with pen and books prove out to be extraordinary. 

Knives get sharper when moved against the rough surface. These people and especially their young generation are intelligent and hardworking. They will not let the rich urban kids over perform them especially when the competition is on equal footing. Just like a small rainfall makes the Thar Desert enormously fertile, a small opportunity in the field of education is enough for them to become great professionals.

In all corners, wherever we look, Tharparkar is the land of sharp contrasts. It has a paradoxical symmetry of some strange kind. Technically, it is a desert but has mountains through which rivers flow during rainfall. Then, it has silver and white sand, but it’s all over green once a year. At one side, it has the Kutch region which once was a seabed but now has no ocean water in it. Other side has a desert and salty marsh encircling it. In terms of people, the district has the least literacy rate i.e. 20% but in terms of quality the students are extraordinary. Similarly, it has one of the largest coal reserves in the world, about 175 billion tons, and yet the country is facing energy scarce situation. Thus, Tharparkar is that complex Rubik’s cube placed in the world competitions waiting to be conquered, waiting to be solved.

Karoonjhar Hills are an important feature of Tharparkar’s identity. They help the desert region sustain rainfall agriculture. Many canals in the shape of rivers generate from these hills and flow towards the plains as well as settlements. Such canals not only help in agriculture but also somehow fill the underground water levels. This increases the water level of wells located even several miles away in the nearby desert cities. 

The hills are spread over 20 kilometer territory having height of nearly 1000-1500 ft above sea level. They are not that high but their design is perfectly shaped by nature. They look like pyramids. They are different in a sense that they are made up of granite and marble. This is a metamorphic type rocks category. They look visibly porous. The view is outstanding as if the nature has carved out these mountains from its own discretion without any imperfections.

Nowadays, much of the activity is going around these mountains. I saw many trucks deep into the Karoonjhar valley, trying to extract rocks and minerals. Locals say, ‘Karoonjhar Mountains are so rich, they yields hundred tons of gold every day.’ This is a literary phrase which means the place has high economic importance for the locals ranging from agriculture to mineral extraction.

These mountains help provide fresh water for agriculture, household use, and drinking purposes. People store fresh water springs generated from here into smaller dams and reserves. There two perennial springs namely Sardhano and Achleshwar flow. Other temporary streams namely Bhetiani and Gordhro flow during monsoon. Some say, the area has more than twenty streams during monsoon times. They are seen flowing all around in different directions. They include Bhatiani, Ghatiani, Pooran wah, Bhodesar stream, Madan wah, Maoo, and Ranesar.

During monsoon season, it is extremely difficult to spot any sandy surface in otherwise a hot desert. Tharparkar is ready to change our concept of a typical desert, thanks to its beautiful pyramid shaped hills which generate fresh water either from rains or from their belly.

Churhio is a village in Nagarparkar area of Tharparkar. It is closest to the Indian border. It is known for the view of India. The great Rajasthani cities like Jaipur and Jodhpur are as far as Karachi from here.  This place is flanked on three sides by India. A significant temple named “Kali” is situated on granite rocks near the village. The temple appears as if entirely built in a narrow cave with rocky foundations.

Kasbo is another village in Nagarparkar area of Tharparkar. It has a famous temple known as ‘Baba Ramdev Temple.” Its custodians are very friendly with travelers. They treat tourists as sacred guests. They even allow people to sleep within the premises of the area. If we bring some vegetables and raw food, they would cook for us. Multiple peacocks move around there. I tried to capture some but they appeared to be too shy.

Nagarparkar town is an absolutely important tourist attraction in the Tharparkar. Due to being close to Indian border, one has to pass through few checkpoints. At one place, it was written that foreigners need special permit or permission to enter the town. But it’s worth it bothering. Some of the shots from famous movie ‘Ramchand Pakistani’ were taken here.

The view of Nagarparkar is as such that it takes us to ancient times. The small town was full of ancient temples. We stopped for some time at “Nagarparkar Bazar Temple.” It was closed, the gates were locked. Words in the sign board were unreadable; the sign board was all corroded. The place appeared to be an abandoned one, nobody seemed to care. 

I tried to take a picture from behind the iron bars of its gate. Somehow, I managed to take few pictures. I hope someone will see them and the government will make efforts to restore these ancient sites. Even though majority of this country belongs to Islam and not Hinduism or Jainism, it is our responsibility to defend the minority sites and protect them. I do consider these places no less than a national treasure of our country, Pakistan.

“Gori Temple” is one of the most magnificent temples of Tharparkar located few miles away from Nagarparkar and Islamkot road. It is a 16th century temple made of white marble. It is a Jain temple but no followers of Jainism exist in Pakistan today. People say, a wealthy Hindu merchant built it and dedicated to Parshwanath, 23rd Jain prophet. The Jain figure is also regarded as cousin of Krishna.

Its walls have geometric shape style and overall design represents classical Jain architecture. There is beautiful artwork on the walls, pillars, and ceiling. The temple has a central dome and 23 other smaller domes.

It has a fresco art inside the central dome. Series of arches and block patterns depict Kings and Queens of the time. But there is more to that. The dome seems to depict a wedding ceremony. Some scholars suggest it was a marriage ceremony of Nemnatha, Krishna’s cousin. The paintings depict Krishna’s presence in the wedding. If some media teams who work on animation try and evaluate this dome work then it is possible to create a whole movie based on different scenes. The art surely depicts a motion picture or series of interrelated sequences.

Its walls seem to be destroyed by earth quake. Some were destroyed by British during the siege when local ruler sought shelter in this temple. All the damaged parts of temple have never been repaired by any monarch or politician since centuries.

Outside the temple is an underground tunnel formation in the ground. Locals say in old days, it was a long tunnel connecting farthest places. A horse could ride from it once. But the British partly destroyed it from inside, so it is now impossible to navigate the network anymore. It reminded me the Altit Fort tunnel in Hunza Valley which our guide told us that British had dismantled it as well. Such tunnels in the historical sites across the country could be revived to make them open for tourists and for some more exploration into the old times.

One wonders why such an amazing structure like Gori Temple is built in middle of nowhere. According to some historians, the present area was once a prosperous sea or river port. Though it was not directly connected to the sea but there used to be a creek connecting it somewhere. This creek was actually a dry bed of some ancient river or a channel from sea or branch of the Indus River. 

About the theory that it could be some separate river apart from Indus, scientists refer to satellite images and depressions in the land. Some say, the ancient Sarasati River used to flow from here. Others indicate towards river Ghaggar Hakra. There is some evidence, although inconclusive, that there used to be a harbor here in the desert till the 15th century. 

Another beautiful structure, perhaps not the grand but surely elegant is ‘Bhodesar Mosque.’ It was built in 1505 A.D by Sultan Mahmood, the ruler of Gujarat. It’s a gorgeous looking old mosque built in Jain architecture style. The relatively compact size doesn’t take away its splendid beauty.

Standing here is like getting a ticket to five hundred years in Muslim history of subcontinent. I realized some of the kings and monarchs of the time stood at this place. That same reality perception but in different time span seems quite fascinating experience. I have some liking for the medieval ages. Riding on a horse, sword hanging in the belt, and the region full of surprises, it all must have been an adventurous period in time.

There is so much peace under the shades of these ancient sites. Time ceases to exist here. It somehow stops. I get a chance to understand the reality. I find a moment to get closer, go back and forth, in time and try to explore the hidden secrets otherwise unexplored and untouched. 

Some locals had put stalls of precious herbal medicines nearby Bhodesar mosque. Such herbs and shrubs are nowhere else to be found. I wanted to buy some but they usually were for specific purposes and diseases. I couldn’t find the reason and need. Still, I hope to get them next time just for the fact that they aren’t available that easily in the market.

The current headquarter of Tharparkar is “Mithi City.” This city is like a cup shaped place between the sand hills. The best view of the city is from top of the hill near “Ghari Bhit Monument.” This is a great picnic spot especially in evening when cold breeze touches the clothes and faces ever so softly. Otherwise, there is a hot desert climate during day time.

To get an idea of the view, imagine experiencing thousands of lives behind houses visible from here. These houses appear all at once and in collective memory. They look like in middle of an urban world but with plenty of space to enjoy the silence of rural life.

The calm atmosphere of night supported by load shedding in the energy deprived country which in reality has an energy surplus potential, just like 175 billion tons of Thar coal, is an absolutely thought provoking experience. 

Its nature’s blessing that there is a beautiful night view of the city without any human effort. There are no such tall buildings or watchtowers here; it’s just a flat plateau that takes care of all the needs of sightseers. I always feel that “Ghari Bhit Monument” can be utilized more than just an empty picnic place. They can make many hotels and all, but that would take away the grace this place currently possesses. So, some places are better to be left alone.

Their houses are the most attractive abode one has ever seen. They are not splendid rather have humble appearances, but they are highly practical as per the environment. And they simply look so different. Locals call them “Chaunras.” Much of the rural population especially poverty stricken people live in these indigenous houses. They are straw roofed mud houses, iconic to the land of Tharparkar.

The women have unique dressing and ornaments. They wear colorful clothing and put bangles in their arms. It is possible to know whether they are married or not. If they wear bangles all the way up to their shoulders, it means they are married.

Though their culture and certain Thari traditions are almost entirely associated with Rajasthani state of India, the roots go deep down to the ancient Indus Valley Civilization. One of the most famous statues discovered from Mohenjo-Daro include the “Dancing Girl.” If seen closely, this girl is wearing the same sort of bangles associated with Tharparkar women. According to some sources, many of the poor castes living here are actually pre historic ones. They are people of the lost cities of Indus Valley Civilization such as Mohenjo-Daro. 

Another key indication is a rare antelope found in Tharparkar and adjoining areas like Kutch which is not found anywhere else. A close look at the ancient Indus valley seals suggest an animal which looks exactly like this antelope. But that animal has one horn and is often referred as unicorn.

According to some scientists, this could be an artist’s choice to show one horn whereas the other horn would be exactly at same place behind the one shown. Since the picture is two dimensional, the other horn is not visible. Hence, this animal could be the one shown in the ancient seals of Mohenjo-Daro, Indus Valley.

Those who once lived the most luxurious life ever imagined in the ancient world, in fact those who laid down the foundation of first urban civilization are actually struggling to even maintain average healthy life today. The beauty and adversity power struggle in Tharparkar has strange dynamics. Today, The Thari women are struggling to deal with issues such as malnutrition, early marriage, teen pregnancy, daily life difficulties, and looking after their families.

They still stick to their ancient social routine such as women hauling water on foot and men taking care of the animals. A lot could be done to introduce new line of thinking with regards to rural professions. They require a proper education in their society and with that creation of different professions both for men and women. 

With necessary guidance and means to end their misery, these people might just be raised from the ashes. ‘Do not despair by the look at our barren desert. With a tiny bit of rain, the harvest shall wave in plenty.’

Even in midst of poverty and backwardness, there is hope in the form of natural talent which these people possess. Thari people are great singers. 'Manganhar Community' in Tharparkar has produced finest performers. They are genuine artists who spend their whole lives in rural setting and tough terrain. So their voices are pure and come from deep within the soul.

I couldn’t get a chance to hear their famous Manganhar Mr. Yousif Faqir. He was at Nagarparkar but probably sick at that time. But I found some other local singers at Marvi-Jo-Khooh (Marvi’s well) and Gori Temple. They had no other audience except us, so they gave us all the attention exclusively.

There is no other experience as beautiful as spending a day or two at Tharparkar. People have preserved a pure kind of human civilization. It can’t be described in words. It could only be felt.

This place is a rubber band of multiple extremes. Here the sand dunes change into lush green carpets in no time. The mountains, made up of granite, glitter like gold. They appear like pyramids. Here the architecture is unique. The people belong to different backgrounds, races, cultures, and religions. This diversity is unheard in rest of Pakistan.

The clouds of true love surround the peaceful people of Tharparkar. There are problems but there is hope. There are hurdles but there is resilience. It’s not perfect here but the simplest and minimalist life has its own appeal. Tharparkar offers more than just imagination. It offers a different perspective to reality. It offers change, uniqueness, freshness, diversity, an unforgettable experience, and an everlasting memory.

- Faizan