JEWELRY DESIGN COMPOSITION:
PLAYING WITH BUILDING BLOCKS
CALLED DESIGN ELEMENTS
by Warren Feld, Designer
Abstract:
Jewelry making is a constructive process of expression. The language of expression begins with the idea of Design Elements. Design Elements are the smallest, meaningful units of design. Design Elements
function in a similar way as vowels and consonants in a language. They have form. They have meaning. They have expression. Some can stand alone, and others are dependent and must be clustered together. Better jewelry designers are aware of and can decode these expressive aspects of design elements and how they are included within any piece. This is one part of learning a disciplinary
literacy in design. This literacy begins with a process of decoding and builds to an intuitive fluency in design. This article focuses on this process of decoding.
Jewelry making is a constructive process of expression.
The language of expression begins with the idea of Design Elements. Design Elements are like building blocks and function a bit like the vowel and consonant letters of the alphabet. They have form. They have meaning. They can be assembled into different arrangements which extend their meaning and usefulness in expression.
There is an underlying logic to this process – a vocabulary and grammar, so to speak. Recognizing how this vocabulary and grammar is structured and applied enables the jewelry designer to learn how to be fluent in design. Such recognition is critical in developing a coherent, consistent disciplinary literacy in jewelry design. Such disciplinary literacy is at the heart
of a professional identity for jewelry design artisans. This literacy structure in design has four main components to it:
1) Vocabulary: Design Elements As The Basis Of Composition
2) Grammar: Principles of Construction
3) Strategy: Project Management[1]
4) Context/Culture: Shared Understandings[2]
This article focuses on the first component – Design Elements.
It makes sense for the designer to begin with something like building blocks, which I call Design Elements. Design Elements, like building blocks, are tangible things. They can be visualized. They can be touched and moved around. They can be combined in different arrangements. They can be used to create many types of expressions. Design Elements include things like color, shape, movement, dimensionality, materials, use of space, and the like. Design Elements are the smallest, meaningful units of design.
Not every Design Element is alike. Color is different than Shape
is different than Texture. Movement is different than Balance is
different than Dimensionality. Learning about and understanding the
differentiation among Design Elements becomes very important if the jewelry designer is to have sufficient power and insight over consistency, variation, coherence and unity in their designs. This power and insight is called decoding. Every jewelry designer needs to learn how to decode, if they are to be successful in design.
Some Design Elements are syllabic meaning they are independent
and can stand alone. Others are non-syllabic, meaning they are dependent and cannot stand alone.
INDEPENDENT DESIGN ELEMENTS |
DEPENDENT DESIGN ELEMENTS |
Function like vowels in alphabet Many expressive variations Syllabic Can stand alone and be expressive Expressions sensitive to placement or context |
Function like consonants in alphabet Limited expressive variations if used alone and not in combination Non-syllabic Do not often stand alone and more usually require an assist from Expressions consistent, somewhat insensitive to placement or |
Design Elements have graphic representations. Graphic representations allow these elements to be recognized symbolically as a sort of short-hand.
Each Design Element also encompasses a range of acceptable meanings, which I call expressive variations. These expressive variations, while different among themselves, are still reflective of that Design Element. They have universal qualities in that people tend to share understandings about what these expressive variations mean and how they are to be used.
Color Schemes, for example, are objective, agreed-upon combinations of colors seen as coherent and unifying. Thus, any color scheme is an expressive variation on the element of Color.
The universal, expressive variations associated with each Design Element are, in effect, attributes of that Design Element. These attributes have an
objective quality to them in that there is general agreement among designer,
viewer, wearer, buyer and seller as to what they express and how they might be used. There is an expectation that whatever role a person plays relative to the piece of jewelry, the Design Elements and their attributes will be decoded in a similar way.
At this stage in the jewelry design process, the focus is on a simple vocabulary. The vocabulary is made up of Design Elements
and their expressive attributes. The vocabulary encapsulates a generally shared understanding of its meaning and how it is to be used. It is
at the point of grammar, thus manipulation and construction, that individual artists get to show their artistic hand in selecting and placing these elements into a finished piece of jewelry.
These Design Elements and their attributes can be arranged in different configurations I call clusters. Clusters may consist of independent Design
Elements alone, dependent Design Elements alone, or a mix of both. For example, we may use an arrangement of glossy and matte Color beads to
project Dimensionality. We may use different Colors of beads, rhythmically arranged, to project Movement.
Combinations of Design Elements into clusters can have different effects, from synergy, antagonism, blending, bounding, freeing and inflection.
Selecting Design Elements and clustering them does not occur in a vacuum.
The designer selects and arranges Design Elements in anticipation of how
these choices will be understood by others in a universal or objective sense.
This is a process which I call “Backwards Designing”.[3] The building blocks and their attributes are first selected in anticipation of these shared understandings. For instance, the designer might choose colors by anticipating how others will recognize the legitimacy and appeal of
certain clusters of colors – color schemes.
If the viewer, wearer, buyer or seller of a piece of jewelry cannot understand and relate to its Design Elements and how they are clustered within the piece, they will not understand it. They will not appreciate it. They will not see it as a legitimate piece of artistic expression. It will not
feel authentic. To others, if the piece lacks evidence of shared understandings, this will result in that jewelry (and by implication, the jewelry artisan) getting labeled, for example, as unsatisfying or boring or ugly or monotonous.
DESIGN ELEMENTS COMPRISE A VOCABULARY
OF BASIC ARTISTIC EXPRESSION
Working with Design Elements is not much different than working with an alphabet.
An alphabet is made up of different letters. Each letter has different
attributes – how it is written, how it sounds, how it is used. Configurations of letters result in more sounds and more meanings and more ways to be used.
A person working with an alphabet has to be able to decode the letters, sounds and meanings, as letters are used individually as well as in combination. As the speaker becomes better at decoding, she or he begins to build in understanding of implications for how any letter is used, again, individually or in combination.
This is exactly what the jewelry designer does with Design Elements. The
designer has to decode, that is, make sense of a series of elements and their attributes in light of our shared understandings about which Design Elements are appropriate, and how they should be legitimately expressed.
Let’s examine a set of jewelry Design Elements in more detail and elaboration.
DESIGN ELEMENT Independent |
GRAPHIC REPRESENTATION |
EXPRESSIVE VARIATIONS |
EXPRESSIVE VARIATIONS |
EXPRESSIVE VARIATIONS |
Color |
|
Schemes Hue and Saturation |
Simultaneity Effects |
Values and Intensity Temperature Receding or Projecting |
Shape |
|
Recognizable Focused Distinct Blended Abstract Filled or Empty |
Delimited, fixed, geometric Infinite, extending Distorted or overlapped |
Masculine or feminine Organic or mechanical Background, foreground, middle ground |
Texture and |
|
Regular, Predictable, Statistical Repeated or singular |
Random, Non-Statistical Feel or look |
Layered or Non-layered Smooth or Rough |
Point, Line, |
|
2-Dimensional 3-Dimensional Conform or violate |
Connected or Unconnected Span and distance Actual or implied Thickness |
Silhouette Focused or unfocused Bounded or unbounded geometric or curved |
Material |
|
Natural or Man-Made Soft or solid Heavy or light |
Single or mixed media |
Light refraction, reflection, absorption |
Technique and |
|
Bead Weaving, Bead Stringing, Wire Working, |
With or without application of heat and/or |
Fabricated or Machine Made Pattern or freeform |
DESIGN ELEMENT
Dependent
|
GRAPHIC
|
EXPRESSIVE VARIATIONS
|
EXPRESSIVE VARIATIONS
|
EXPRESSIVE VARIATIONS
|
Dimensionality
|
|
2-dimensional
|
3-dimensional (relief, low relief, high relief)
Interior and Exterior Contours
|
Frontal or in-the-round
Open or closed forms
Static or dynamic forms
|
Movement
|
|
Passive
Direction
Linear or wave
|
Physical
Stable or erratic
|
Mechanical
|
Color Blending
|
|
Simultaneity effects
|
Value and intensity
Saturation and vibrance
|
Distinct or blurred
Dominant or recessive
|
Theme, Symbols
|
|
Surface or interpreted meaning(s) or
Power, position, protection, identification
|
Clear or abstract referents
Object as whole, or parts of object
|
Repetition or not
Individual, group, cultural, societal,
|
Beauty and
|
|
Sensually pleasing: visual, touch, auditory,
|
Objective or emotional
|
Coherence, harmony and unity
Fashion, style, timeliness, timelessness
|
Structure and
|
|
Stiff or flexible
Flow and drape
Linkage, connectivity
|
Wearability
Display
Organization
|
Articulation
Autonomy vs. Temporariness
Interactive with wearer, or not
|
Craftsmanship
|
|
Inspiration
Skill and dexterity
With tools, or not
|
Design acumen
|
Personality and preferences
|
Form, Segmentation,
|
|
Shape with Volume
Whole or divided
Organized or chaotic
|
Perspective
2-dimensional or 3-dimensional
Alignment
|
Shading
Positioning or spacing
Simple or Complex
|
Balance and
|
|
Symmetrical (By size, color, or shape)
Visual weight
Visual size
|
Asymmetrical (By size, color, or shape)
Radial
Visual placement
|
Random
Stable or unstable
Directed or undirected
|
Referents to specific
|
|
Vintage Revival
Direct or implied
|
Contemporary
Literal or figurative
|
Symbolic
|
Context,
|
|
Economic, social, psychological, cultural,
|