2019-06-24 12:37
This blog has moved. After redesigning my website in June 2019 I have moved my blogs to:https://www.davemacleod.com/blogI'll leave the archive of posts on this and my online climbing coach b… Read More
Blog Directory > Life Blogs > My Life Blogs > Dave MacLeod my-life Blog >
2019-03-27 11:16
A vlog on how I motivate myself to train. It’s pretty simple.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes Read More
2019-03-13 20:25
"What gets measured, gets managed". Measuring aspects of performance in sport is a good thing, but only if you are measuring the right things and interpreting the data correctly. In this vlo… Read More
2019-03-13 08:44
Nevis Faces is a 6 part series of short films Claire and I have made for the Nevis Landscape Partnership that explores the faces of those who work and live around the Nevis area. Helen Ren… Read More
2019-03-09 21:50
A comment after Vlog #11 prompted me to do a whole episode exploring the pros and cons of physical versus sedentary jobs and their interaction with your training for climbing. Folk in physic… Read More
2019-03-06 09:33
The second in our 6-part series about interesting folk in the Nevis Area is out. This time about Dave Cuthbertson. I spent most of my youth trying to repeat Cubby’s desperate rock clim… Read More
2019-02-27 17:18
People are busy, including me. This post goes through how I manage busy work periods from a training point of view. I also discuss a common theme related to failure to recover from climbing… Read More
2019-01-10 18:00
Here are three strategies I use in my own climbing to reflect on the previous year and plan for better results in the coming year, with some examples of how to implement them. Near the end… Read More
2018-06-28 19:31
Iain Small starting out on the bold lower half of Mr Fahrenheit E7 6b on the Comb, Ben Nevis. The prow on the right is my own route Anubis (E8) from 2005.This summer is ridiculous. Anyone wh… Read More
2018-06-11 21:26
Back in March I had a great day out climbing a link-up I’d thought about for many years: Font 8A boulder, E8 trad, 8a sport, VIII,8 winter route and 8 Munros in 24 hours. I blogged abo… Read More
2018-05-25 09:33
On the lower quarter of Hyperlipid 8c, common to my other route Testify 8b. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky MediaLast October I bolted two 50m new routes, sharing the same start, at Loch Mare… Read More
2018-05-22 16:05
For about 15 years I’ve been exploring the Scottish Islands and opening many trad routes on all sorts of cliffs, big and small. I’ve often focused on the Hebrides and also had a… Read More
2018-04-23 14:39
On the lower half of Spring Voyage 8b/8b+ last October (this part is common to my route Testify, 8b). Photo: Dark Sky MediaAfter doing the 24/8 link-up I was pretty keen to move on to prepar… Read More
2018-04-19 10:48
As promised, here is some video of me climbing Gutbuster 8B+ at Dumbarton Rock back at the end of the winter. I’ve been so busy going out climbing I’ve never got round to putting… Read More
2018-03-21 15:12
Enjoying the summit of Ben Nevis on a climbing day I will remember for a long time. Photo: Kevin WoodsI moved to Lochaber ten years ago and one thing you cannot escape as a local is that in… Read More
2018-03-06 15:40
Iain Small approaching the roof on pitch 1 of the Moth Direct. After the first couple of pitches I didn't get the camera out much. It wasn't really photography weather!Last week I was sa… Read More
2018-03-02 13:50
Highpoint on Gutbuster 8B+ in sunnier times in May 2017 - very very close but needed some more cold days! Thanks to Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media for the pic.Oh man, thinking about… Read More
2018-02-04 23:36
Last night I climbed Catalan Witness the Fitness in Cova De l’ Ocell, Catalunya, first climbed by Chris Sharma. In my last post I talked about doing one of the 8B variations on it and… Read More
2018-01-25 11:57
Video still of the redpoint crux on ‘GRA” 8B, Cova De l’Ocell, Catalunya. I was really trying to hold on, but didn’t quite make it this time.Right now I am in Spain… Read More
2017-10-04 22:33
On the headwall of Testify 8b, Loch Maree Supercrag last weekend. Yesterday, on the first ascent, these lovely rough Gneiss crimps were a wee bit wet in the pouring rain, but they are incut… Read More
2017-09-22 13:07
It’s coming up for 8 weeks since I separated my shoulder. I’m delighted with my progress and although I’ve obviously got a long way to go yet, I’m a lot further along… Read More
2017-09-22 10:06
FWMF Minifest 2017 from Fort William Mountain Festival on Vimeo.Here is a trailer I put together for the Fort William Mountain Festival Minifest which is running on Saturday 7th of October… Read More
2017-08-30 14:11
5 weeks ago, I had an accident playing with my daughter and separated my shoulder. I did it properly as well; a grade 3 separation tearing all three ligaments which join my right collar bone… Read More
2017-08-16 09:00
The first crux of Dun Briste E8 6c during the first ascent. Thanks to Cubby Images for these pics. Cubby, when are you doing your book?!! This summer I’ve tried to make up for las… Read More
2017-07-16 13:37
Setting up for the crux of Old Boy Racer E8 5b, 7a, 6b on Ruabhal, St Kilda. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky MediaSeveral years ago I was lucky enough to climb on the spectacular… Read More
2017-06-05 19:20
Repeating Iain Small's Siege Engine E7 6c yesterday. Amazingly carefree feeling just to have to worry about sending the route and not much else. The rope is hanging down another project whic… Read More
2017-05-22 08:50
FA of The Mighty Chondria E7 6c, 5c on Creag Mo, Isle of Harris. Pic by Chris Prescott/Dark Sky MediaIt’s a good sign when you are too busy being outside climbing all the time to write… Read More
2017-03-23 14:59
A video still on the send of Lithium 8B+, Arisaig.Yesterday, I sent my project in the Arisaig Cave. Nine years after Johan first told me about the cave, that’s me climbed all the good… Read More
2017-03-21 11:03
The Fort from Nevis Landscape Partnership on Vimeo.I’m delighted to share a film we shot last summer for the Nevis Landscape Partnership, and premiered at the Fort William Mountain Fe… Read More
2017-03-20 10:21
Natalie Berry on The Original 7B, the classic of the cave. Pic: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky MediaI've been meaning to prepare a topo of the Arisaig Cave for ages. I've also made a PDF version of… Read More
2017-03-17 19:48
Get the left hand squeezed a few mm to the left, and the move works! Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky MediaTwo days on my project in the cave this week, in the company of Chris Prescott, Natal… Read More
2017-03-11 08:51
highpoint March 3rd from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.The video above is my best effort so far on the project, from a couple of sessions ago when conditions were quite good.Yesterday, I went to th… Read More
2017-03-07 12:03
A couple of teetery moves on the second pitch of Cloudjumper VIII,9 on Ben NevisTowards the end of February, Scotland kicks off with good conditions for just about everything at the same tim… Read More
2017-02-17 11:16
We have delivery of our stock of the new Scottish Bouldering guide by John Watson. It’s fantastic to see John put so much effort into updating this excellent and much needed guide. It… Read More
2017-02-07 11:45
Dave MacLeod speaks to URBAN UPRISING from UrbanUprising on Vimeo.I’m delighted to say I am now an ambassador for the charity Urban Uprising, which takes children from deprived backgr… Read More
2017-02-06 11:42
Dave Almond approaching the bulge on pitch 2 of Knuckleduster Direct (the original version goes right, the direct goes left to continue up the general corner feature.)Yesterday was a fun day… Read More
2017-02-04 18:58
FWMF Showreel 2017 from Fort William Mountain Festival on Vimeo.The Fort William Mountain Festival is always a highlight of the year for me. In fact, aside from climbing trips themselves, i… Read More
2017-01-21 10:30
Good Drying, 8A+, Arisaig Cave from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.As ever I’ve found recovering from being broken and stuck on crutches a long road without many shortcuts. I’d definitel… Read More
2016-11-23 13:28
A minute away from breaking a leg. And I just thought I was about to climb a great new trad first ascent. Photos: Masa SakanoDuring August and September I was a wee bit frustrated, bothered… Read More
2016-11-06 19:41
Myself and my friend Niall McNair who also spoke at the Urban Uprising event at TCA Glasgow the other weekA couple of weeks ago I gave a talk at a big boulder comp/party event at TCA Glasgow… Read More
2016-09-02 13:41
Completing my hard yellow circuit on the board for the first time yesterday. A small training milestone for the summer. If you would like to join me for some coaching at my own wall, I just… Read More
2016-09-02 13:39
Completing my hard yellow circuit on the board for the first time yesterday. A small training milestone for the summer. If you would like to join me for some coaching at my own wall, I just… Read More
2016-08-25 08:54
Mid crux on The Inconvenient Tooth E8 6c. Thanks to Cubby Images for these great pics.During the good spell back in June, Dan McManus and Ross McKerchar climbed a great looking new E8 8c new… Read More
2016-08-14 23:34
Calum Muskett entering the crux of Rapid Learning Curve E6 6b, Elgol, Isle of Skye.In my last post I mentioned that I’d spent a fair bit of time on my board in the past few (wet) weeks… Read More
2016-08-09 18:42
During July I was mostly to be found here in my wall, running many a lap.After a successful couple of days in Early June visiting the lake and climbing Return of the King (E9), I returned fo… Read More
2016-07-05 22:22
A Fine Line from Nevis Landscape Partnership on Vimeo.Here is a wee film I made recently with Michael Tweedley and my DJI Inspire 1 drone, running the always fantastic Tower Ridge on Ben Ne… Read More
2016-07-01 14:17
GoPro of Return of the King E9 6c from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.Here is some GoPro footage of my ascent of Return of the King E9 in the Lakes last week. You can hear Steve Ashworth’s cam… Read More
2016-07-01 14:03
3WM June 2016 White circuit from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.Yesterday I set a new white circuit (the hardest in the range of boulder circuits) in Three Wise Monkeys in Fort William. Most of them… Read More
2016-06-28 21:36
High on Return of the King, E9 6c, Scafell. Photo: Steve Ashworth/Lake District ImagesOver the years I’ve repeated several of Dave Birkett’s excellent hard trad routes in the Lak… Read More
2016-06-19 22:41
Training in my new La Sportiva Otakis earlier todayI’m delighted to say I have joined the athlete team of La Sportiva after meeting the guys at Lyon Equipment last week. I don’t… Read More
2016-06-09 14:01
Racing ahead of my chasing pack of midges to arrive at the roof on North by North West direct (E7 6b). From here you swing wildly left along the lip and get cracking on the big wall above.La… Read More
2016-05-27 22:54
Practice of the Wild from MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT on Vimeo.Above is the film of me climbing Practice of the Wild 8C in Switzerland the other week. The whole experience of that trip went pretty w… Read More
2016-05-24 22:29
Risk taking is something that continually fascinates me. It used to occupy my mind mainly in the context of running it out on scary trad routes. These days, more and more, I think of my risk… Read More
2016-05-02 12:30
Video still of climbing Practice of the Wild (Font 8C) in Magic Wood last week.The footage of Tyler Landman doing the second ascent of Practice of the Wild was what first inspired me to visi… Read More
2016-04-21 21:48
Shallow Water to Riverbed 8B+ from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.Right now I am back in Magic Wood, Switzerland, waiting for the rain and snow to stop. I’ve been here for a week, with a mix o… Read More
2016-04-05 09:48
Ben Nevis · Wild Times from Nevis Landscape Partnership on Vimeo.I’m delighted to finally be able to share this film that I’ve been gathering footage for since last summe… Read More
2016-03-27 22:13
The Curtain - Solo from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.Here is a wee video shot on my GoPro of my solo of The Curtain on Ben Nevis the other week. I was up in the north face to do something else but… Read More
2016-03-24 11:28
Gimme That Swing 8B, Glen Nevis from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.Returning home from Mull I could see the incredible spell of weather was about to break. I dived out to my project on The Cameron… Read More
2016-03-21 11:27
First ascent of Ice Burn E8 6c, on the Ice Wall, Kintra, Isle of Mull. Photo Chris PrescottI was all geared up for some winter projects when the Scottish weather, as always, changed the plan… Read More
2016-03-19 18:53
By day 2 of building my climbing wall, we’d moved the horizontal trusses up, giving four metres of height. Then it was time to start cutting and drilling the timber frame.By the end of… Read More
2016-03-19 18:53
Day 1 of building my wall! Moving trusses, sawing, grinding, drilling and generally trying to keep up with Scott Muir from Dream Climbing Walls.So excited.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10… Read More
2016-03-19 18:53
On the steep corner of Rutless, VII,8 Ben Nevis. My camera misted up a bit in the west coast air!After a huge dump of fresh snow, a lot of folk, including myself, were desperate to get back… Read More
2016-03-19 18:53
Above is a video of a super problem I did in Patagonia called Wasabi (V12). I made the video while I was out there but the connection was too bad to upload it. I’d seen video of it bef… Read More
2016-03-19 12:41
Natalie Berry, recipient of the 2016 Youth Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture from Fort William Mountain Festival on Vimeo.Here is a film I made about Natalie Berry, this year’s… Read More
2016-03-17 21:38
With the good forecast we made a snap decision that winter was over and just arrived on Mull to try a mega crack project that Michael told me about. Yesterday I had a full day on it and mana… Read More
2016-03-12 13:55
Mick Tighe, recipient of the 2016 Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture from Fort William Mountain Festival on Vimeo.Here is a wee film I made about Mick Tighe, this year’s recipie… Read More
2016-03-09 20:34
Ian Sykes (Spike) gave me a copy of his new book ‘In the shadow of Ben Nevis’ which is just out. Spike is a household name in the Lochaber area due to his founding of Nevisport… Read More
2016-03-07 21:27
Getting ready to get extremely pumped and scared all over again on the second pitch of Night Fury IX, 9, Ben Nevis.The late winter/early spring period is an absolutely amazing time in S… Read More
2016-03-04 00:11
Mixed climbing doesn’t always need to be a sufferfest - enjoying solid hooks and gear on the crux of Sundance VIII,8 on Beinn EigheI’m more torn than ever about how to focus my c… Read More
2016-01-31 11:05
Miles AwayI’ve entered my wee film Miles Away into the BMC women in adventure film competition. I noticed that they rank and shortlist the films based on the number of views on BMC TV… Read More
2016-01-28 17:42
Last night I worked till around midnight (editing Mick Tighe's voice) which is kind of early for me normally. But I didn’t get to sleep and so was a complete mess when the alarm went o… Read More
2016-01-27 13:59
This week, I am in Margalef, getting fit for projects, getting fit on projects, and editing video in every spare moment in between. We just arrived and after failing on some hard routes, I d… Read More
2016-01-22 20:32
Scottish Winter Kit list from Ellis Brigham on Vimeo.Here is a video I made going through the kit I take for Scottish winter climbing - sack, clothing, climbing equipment, food etc. It&rsqu&helli…Read More
2016-01-19 22:40
Enjoying the fine position on the second pitch of Southern Freeze IX,9 Photo Helen RennardThe Arrochar Alps are not just my favourite winter playground because I’m from Glasgow. I stil… Read More
2016-01-08 13:17
Judging by the number of books we’ve been stuffing into the wee postbox in Inverroy since January 1st, there are a lot of climbers out there with new year’s resolutions to change… Read More
2016-01-07 21:31
Fort William Mountain Festival 2016 showreel from Fort William Mountain Festival on Vimeo.I just put together the reel for the Fort William Mountain Festival which is coming up in mid Febru… Read More
2015-12-19 14:05
4th Wave, 8B first ascent from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.I had a strong feeling I was going to be able to climb my project in the Arisaig Cave imminently. I have been climbing rather better tha… Read More
2015-12-18 15:22
Miles Away from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.I’ve had my drone for several months now and been gathering some footage for various projects in Scotland, but I’ve just finished my first d… Read More
2015-11-13 12:00
Pleased to redpoint Aitzol 8c. Definitely my first 8c warm-up!After a long drive from Magic Wood we arrived in Catalunya feeling a bit tired. I had a bit of realisation that going from pulli… Read More
2015-11-10 00:00
A couple of years ago Natalie Berry asked if I’d be keen to show her some trad climbing places around Scotland as she was making a move from competition climbing into trying out trad a… Read More
2015-11-09 18:50
Sunday boarding from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.When I designed and built my climbing wall last year, I had two purposes in mind:1. To get ridiculously strong.2. To coach other climbers there, i… Read More
2015-11-08 01:11
Magic night in the Wood from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.The last two weeks have been my third time in Magic Wood in Switzerland. The place is packed with some of the hardest and most iconic boul… Read More
2015-10-30 18:09
Claire MacLeod - Outlandia Artist in Residence from Nevis Landscape Partnership on Vimeo.Here is a short video I made of Claire’s week up in the fantastic Outlandia in Glen Nevis. Clai… Read More
2015-10-12 22:26
Cameron Stone Arete 8A+ from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.After an abortive September start in the warm weather, bouldering season felt like it kicked off a bit today with a chill breeze and a not… Read More
2015-10-05 22:55
Finishing the hard section on The Force, 8b at Brin Rock. I'm just in from bolting a potential 8b+ or 8c there which looks excellent. Photo: Chris PrescottThe weather in Scotland over the pa… Read More
2015-08-21 18:50
Disco 2000, 8a+ Blåmman from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.The video above takes in some of the great climbing on Disco 2000. The pitches went at 7b, 8a+, 7a, 8a+, 7c, 7c, 7b+, 7a, 7a, 6a, 6c… Read More
2015-08-08 18:04
Myself and Jacob Cook enjoying another night shift on Blamman’s north face.Right now I am in arctic Norway with Jacob Cook and Calum Muskett, climbing on Blamman’s north face. I… Read More
2015-07-07 10:38
Waiting for the breeze to come back at the base of Bark at the Moon E8 6c, Glen Clova. Photos by Masa Sakano.Last week I went for a wee wander about Glen Clova. I hadn’t been there bef… Read More
2015-07-02 19:24
Transition Film Preview - Toast E7 6c 1st Ascent from Hot Aches Productions on Vimeo.Last week I visited Suidhe Biorach on Skye for the first time, on a cold and windy day with Natalie. The… Read More
2015-06-21 11:46
Enjoying the chilled out finish of Austerity Lite (E6 6b) on the first ascent, Financial Sector, Neist Point, Isle of Skye. Photo: Chris Prescott/Hot Aches ProductionsFirst post surgery rout… Read More
2015-06-04 19:00
Dave MacLeod systemise campusing and 1-4-7 campus board from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.During my surgery rehab I have done a LOT of climbing without my feet. Unsurprisingly I have got a little… Read More
2015-06-04 11:55
In a first for the davemacleod.com shop, we are doing a summer sale with healthy discounts of 50-75% on lots of our climbing DVDs and clothing. Some examples:Echo Wall and Longhope DVDs now… Read More
2015-05-29 12:37
Here is a wee film we put together about Robin Campbell for this year’s Fort William Mountain Festival. As well as Robin himself, it also features Jimmy Marshall, Paul Brian and Ken Cr… Read More
2015-05-25 09:11
Camping at Creag Meagaidh with Freida a couple of weeks ago. One of the highlights of the last couple of months.When I last wrote on my blog I was not long out of ankle surgery and feeling d… Read More
2015-04-14 09:45
Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches ProductionsI'm speaking in Ambleside on Friday with The Climber's Shop and Mountain Equipment, 7.30pm at the University of Cumbria Ambleside campus. All the det… Read More
2015-03-30 19:29
Here is the Project Fear film about my new route on Cima Ovest last September. Truth be told, I was incredibly lucky that myself and Alan Cassidy were able to get the route climbed given the… Read More
2015-03-29 21:23
Zeki Basan from Nevis Landscape Partnership on Vimeo.Here is a short film we made about Zeki Basan, a great young character from over in the Gorms. Zeki won the Scottish youth award for moun… Read More
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