Costume played a big part in the creation of Wilder’s characters and it was something which he clearly enjoyed and embraced. I think it is a fitting tribute to enjoy some of his iconic costumes which helped create the film performances we know and love.

Comedy legend, Gene Wilder, established himself as one of the most successful comic actors with his delightfully neurotic performances. Mr. Wilder’s rule for comedy was simple: Don’t try to make it funny; try to make it real. “I’m an actor, not a clown,”

He is best known as the eccentric title character in Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, 1971. His role playing the candy making Willy Wonka has one the most recognisable of costumes in the history of film.

The creation of this iconic costume with it’s purple velvet frock coat, top hat and bow tie had a helping hand from the actor himself. Wilder wrote a superb letter to the director, Mel Stuart, to give his input into the design of the costume. He had some “tweaks” to his costume, and he couldn’t have brought them to Stuart’s attention in a more eloquent fashion. You can read Wilder’s words here in a transcription and also see the original below.

Letter transcription from Gene Wilder to director Mel Stuart

July 23rd
Dear Mel,
I’ve just received the costume sketches. I’ll tell you everything I think, without censoring, and you take from my opinion what you like.
I assume that the designer took his impressions from the book and didn’t know, naturally, who would be playing Willy. And I think, for a character in general, they’re lovely sketches.
I love the main thing—the velvet jacket—and I mean to show by my sketch the exact same color. But I’ve added two large pockets to take away from the svelte, feminine line. (Also in case of a few props.)
I also think the vest is both appropriate and lovely.
And I love the same white, flowing shirt and the white gloves. Also the lighter colored inner silk lining of the jacket.
What I don’t like is the precise pin pointing in place and time as this costume does.
I don’t think of Willy as an eccentric who holds on to his 1912 Dandy’s Sunday suit and wears it in 1970, but rather as just an eccentric—where there’s no telling what he’ll do or where he ever found his get-up—except that it strangely fits him: Part of this world, part of another. A vain man who knows colors that suit him, yet, with all the oddity, has strangely good taste. Something mysterious, yet undefined.
I’m not a ballet master who skips along with little mincy steps. So, as you see, I’ve suggested ditching the Robert Helpmann trousers. Jodhpurs to me belong more to the dancing master. But once elegant now almost baggy trousers—baggy through preoccupation with more important things—is character.
Slime green trousers are icky. But sand colored trousers are just as unobtrusive for your camera, but tasteful.
The hat is terrific, but making it 2 inches shorter would make it more special.
Also a light blue felt hat-band to match with the same light blue fluffy bow tie shows a man who knows how to compliment his blue eyes. To match the shoes with the jacket is fey. To match the shoes with the hat is taste.
Hope all is well. Talk to you soon.
All my best,
Gene

See the original Letter

Amazing isn’t it? I love his attention to detail, nothing is overlooked or taken for granted. But, most especially, I love his use of language. He express what he wants and how he feels without trying to cause any offence or disrespect to the designer or director. Many actors I’ve worked with have no interest in their costume, they see fittings as a chore and worry too much about what they would wear, not what their character would wear. I’ve always thought this strange, as surely to be an actor one would want to change from oneself into a character, and what better way to do that than through costume. I think Gene Wilder got that, although there is a touch of vanity wanting to show off  to their best his impressive blue eyes. Though that was one wish he didn’t get granted.

One of the most recognisable costumes in the world was designed by Helen Colvig with notes from Gene Wilder. He thought about his parts from every angle and he insisted the character of Willy Wonka appeared at first with a limp only to lose control of his cane and recover with a perfect summersault. “From that time on, no one will know if I’m lying or telling the truth,” he told director Mel Stuart. Costume designer Helen Colvig had originally drawn up sketches that kept true to the Roald Dahl descriptions in the original book. It appeared to Wilder’s eyes that the look was too stereotypical of a 1920’s dandy, potentially dating the character. The final costume didn’t end up incorporating all of Wilder’s suggestions. There’s no blue hat band, but the khaki-colored and notably non-jodhpur pants, coat pockets, matching hat and shoes and shorter hat did make the final edit.

Gene Wilder’s Timeless Characters

Willy Wonka is an all time favourite, not even Jonny Depp can compete, but let’s not forget some others. I’ve chosen some here with classic costumes to influence, inspire and admire.

I hope you have enjoyed this blog post. R.I.P Gene Wilder.

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